Leg 9 Folkestone to the High & Dry pub, Waldershare (Sunday 30th September 2007)

Distance covered: 16.74 miles
Max height: 169m Min height: 6m
Total ascent: 813m Total descent: 883m

We had a rather late start again as Daniel and Adeola got lost on the way to the pub finish point. Making use of the extra half hour waiting time at the start, Simon read a book (or possibly had a sleep), while Anne and Sally picked sloes.

Leaving the Chunnel Terminal behind

Today’s weather was forecast to be dry again, and although it was a pretty nippy first thing, there was plenty of sunshine for a large part of the day. Simon’s friend, Denis, couldn’t come (have we scared him off that easily?), and Val had family business to attend to, so there were eight of us who set off sometime after 10.30am from the view point above the rather quiet Chunnel terminal. Although a bit hazy, the French coast was clearly visible.

Folkestone White Horse

The initial path ran along the cliff top, parallel to the lane, and was rather muddy due to some rain over the preceding few days. As cows grazed the hillside here, there was also quite a bit of ‘poo’ to avoid. After about ½ mile there was another angled view of the White Horse, but it really needed to be photographed from down near the M20 for maximum impact.

A train about to enter the Channel Tunnel

Caesar's Camp earthworks

Arriving at the impressive earthworks called Caesar’s Camp, our route skirted the main hill. There were quite a few other walkers around this morning, although most seemed to be locals taking their dogs for a stroll on the cliffs rather than hardcore hikers like us! The views south were over Folkestone industrial estate to the sea, while north there were rolling agricultural fields.

Group photo on Round Hill

Sun out, fleeces off

We soon crossed the busy A260 and then it was ‘fleeces off’ for me and Sally, as the sun was getting quite warm now. The road took us up the hill, where we crossed a (much photographed) stile and back onto grass. Many of the hills around us had the characteristic ‘contour line’ effect seen on the previous walk, including the attractive Sugarloaf Hill.

Don't think he's listening to a word you say, Sally!

Views SW to Sugarloaf Hill, Folkestone and the A20

Along this section, called Dover Hill, we came across a small herd of Highland cattle (a bit far from home?), which also became the subjects of quite a few photos. Zuka then found her ‘lunch’ in the form of a discarded takeaway, complete with bag, which she carried proudly for some distance. Daniel started a trend for this particular walk by making friends with a couple of elderly horses, one of which was a very curiously coloured Appaloosa cob which had no tail hair at all, poor thing.

Higland Cattle on Creteway Down

Daniel makes a friend

Crossing the B2021 we reached the Valiant Sailor pub, where we waited for the stragglers near the outlet of the extractor fan, bathed in the scents of chips and other sundry culinary delights (?!). Gastric juices well stimulated, I think Simon was quite keen to have lunch then and there, but as it was only about noon we were determined to press on for another hour or so.

Views east along cliff

Looking back to an empty Folkestone harbour

The route then took us along a scrubby cliff top path. Behind us to the west we were finally saying goodbye to Folkestone (the harbour looked forlorn and empty - passenger ferries no longer depart from here), while ahead of us there were some good views of white cliffs above sandy bays. Some of the ‘sandy’ beaches turned out to be concrete (!), and it is probable that these were built to allow channel tunnel construction vehicles to carry their spoil to the dump site (well, no one could think of a better explanation). The path was narrow and occasionally went through hawthorn ‘tunnels’ or between gorse hedges -some better trimmed than others.

Battle of Britain memorial

Spot the difference

We arrived relatively unscathed at the Battle of Britain memorial site, which covers quite a large area of grass, and is well maintained. There were several separate memorials, grassy banks, a couple of planes, plus a posh information centre with shop and loos. A few of us made use of the facilities and/or purchased soft drinks, while Simon, not content with listening to his IPOD, bought three World War II paperbacks, which he then had great difficulty stuffing into his rucksack. As this was obviously a place of ‘quiet contemplation’, it was a shame that someone saw fit to disturb the peace with a noisy remote control car.

Memorial site giftshop

A moment of quiet contemplation at the memorial wall

Pressing on at last, we were immediately forced to descend some tricky steps partway down the cliffside, only to some back up another set almost immediately. Here we came across a curious Spanish style property, although with the sun glinting onto the sea over their garden wall, you could today perhaps (with some imagination) believe you were in the Med. Continuing on the scrubby path, our route soon drew close to the road again, where there were a number of houses with second floor balconies to take advantage of the sea views. Glancing towards them, I spotted a resident sitting in his window enjoying the autumn sunshine, and we exchanged a quick wave.

Now they tell us!

When we reached the ‘Cliff Top Café’, we just had to stop for ice-cream and chocolate, but as it was now lunch time there was a bit of a queue, and it took quite a while to be served. In the end, most of us also bought slices of lemon cake ‘to go’, some of which lasted longer than others (Daniel, I believe, ate his in two bites as he left the café). We were now all keen to stop for lunch, and after walking on a few hundred yards we found a suitable spot with a couple of seats on the cliff top with stunning views. What we didn’t know was that there was a proper picnic area just round the corner, but it was still a glorious spot.

A lovely spot for lunch

View west back towards Folkestone

As we continued along the cliffs, Zuka got sidetracked briefly by a pheasant, and we passed a small mobile home site (it would be interesting to know how much these prime-site properties change hands for) and ducked through a number of foliage tunnels. As the route drew closer to the A20, the traffic noise became a little intrusive again.

Early warning system

Along the cliff top here were a varied assortment of concrete structures – a large concave-faced early warning system for detecting planes (pre-radar, obviously), a rather quirky botanical ‘book’ illustrating the orchids that presumably flower here in season; and some rather unattractive pill boxes, bunkers and a disused rifle range.

Stone book

Cliff path towards Shakespeare Cliff

Below us was the Samphire Hoe Country Park, which has been constructed from the spoil of the Channel Tunnel, and in the publicity blurb is described as ‘the newest bit of England’. From above I have to say it didn’t look particularly scenic (I guess age will improve its looks), and at one end of it there was some kind of industrial construction with whirly silver things on top, which is probably something to do with the Chunnel ventilation system.

Sampire Hoe country park

Dover harbour

Some of the path here was a bit narrow, through scratchy gorse and hawthorn, but the views towards Dover cliffs and harbour were quite splendid. When the sun popped out from behind a cloud, the white cliffs and ferries took on a surreal appearance. After meeting more horses, and passing another waymarker (122 miles), we descended the very steep Round Down, and then it was up again over Shakespeare Cliff, which on the approach looked a bit like a ridge walk, but was actually completely benign. Apparently it owes its name to the scene in King Lear where the blind Earl of Gloucester attempts to hurl himself off the precipice (not being a Shakespeare buff myself, I have only read A Midsummer Nights Dream which I did for O-Level about a million years ago).

Under the A20

The end of the cliff path was marked by a curiously shaped seat with a ridged back - the plaque referred to the North Downs as the backbone of southern England. We then descended towards the (not so scenic) Dover town, passing beneath the A20 through an underpass and walking up a road of residential houses. Anne wasted some phone credit here contacting Simon, who we thought had gone the wrong way – but he was actually ahead of us, bless him – that damn IPOD was making him very self-centred today!

Knights Templar church - Dover

Western Heights fortifications

We then climbed steeply up the grassy Western Heights. Here we came across the ruins of an ancient Knights Templar church and skirted some impressive fortifications. We had clear views of the castle ahead, although our route would not be taking us there today. The sky had clouded over rather by this time and the light was a bit ‘flat’ for Anne’s liking (photographically speaking).

Dover castle

Mind how you go, Sally!

Descending towards the town centre down a long flight of steep, slippery steps (the sign warning us to hold on to the handrail was, rather unhelpfully, at the bottom), we soon arrived at Market Square, the official end point of the NDW. Curiously, there is nothing to mark it as such, not even an information board. However, as we still had six further miles to complete that day (and roughly thirty in total) we weren’t too upset.

Dover

We purchased snacks in a local newsagent and had a brief rest near the fountain, while Dave and I ‘argued’ about the route out of the square, as there didn’t appear to be any signs. Having previously printed out a town map of Canterbury I was pretty confident of the way, and so everyone followed my lead – fortunately we soon picked up an NDW signpost as we passed St Mary’s church, and crossed a small park.

Simon & Zuka in Market Square - Dover

St Mary's church

After walking north through suburban streets for approximately a mile we finally, and thankfully, left Dover behind, passing through a cemetery, and continued on a path under some curiously low bridges. We passed a large group of French hikers walking towards the town. I think one of them asked if they were going the right way for the boat. After crossing a railway line the metalled path eventually became a pleasant tree tunnel.

Cemetary

Sorry Zuka, dogs not allowed

Leaving Dover, Dave had confidently predicted that the rest of the route that day should be fairly flat. Well, I have to say that after that statement was uttered we climbed fairly consistently (and steeply enough to really feel it) for well over a mile! Thanks Dave! Poor Sally got a bit left behind as we trudged up the hill - she must curse those of us with longer legs at times.

Ploughed fields approaching A20

The end is nigh..........

Once the ascent began to level off, the tree lined path (which was rather wet in places) ran between ploughed arable fields. As we approached the busy A2 traffic noise became more evident. The route was diverted east here to take us to a safer crossing point over a road bridge, and then returned west on the far side. Turning north again the path was again contained in a hawthorn tunnel, and on one short section there was rather a lot of litter.

Tree tunnel path between fields

You've just gotta laugh!

Passing a field of horses, we just had to stop and make some more equine friends. I even shared a joke with one! Before reaching the village of Pineham (which is little more than a hamlet of farms) we passed another stone way marker. This one was rather dirty and some previous walkers had attempted to clean it up a bit so you could read the engraving.

Tired walkers

Dirty waymark approaching Pineham

We were all getting weary now but were fortunately on the home straight. Walking on a brief section of ‘roman road’ we encountered an enormous farm vehicle which took up the whole lane and had to pull aside to let us pass. Our route took us through the pretty village of Ashley where we had to walk up the lane, and unfortunately managed to rouse some fierce dogs. Crossing fields again at Minacre Farm we made friends with our last horse of the day (a smart piebald cob pony), before finally crossing the road bridge over the A256 and turning right up the lane to reach the High & Dry pub.

Monster farm vehicle

Evening draws in, approaching Waldershare

It was now about 6.20pm and the light was definitely beginning to fail – the combination of a late start and too much dawdling (plus the not inconsequential 16¾ miles we had walked) having taken its toll. As a walk, the part before Dover was far more interesting than the latter stages, but there was nothing much to complain about really – we had just been spoiled by rather a lot of wonderful scenery for much of both this walk and NDW8.

Folkestone Chunnel terminal at night

After a welcome and much needed drink and packet (or two) of crisps at the pub, we returned to Folkestone to the other waiting cars. It was by now pitch black and obviously quite impossible to photograph the White Horse from Tesco or anywhere else. Finally leaving the lay-by to drive home, I was personally very glad that I would not be driving on those narrow lanes near Pene again!

Leg 8 Boughton Lees to Folkestone (Sunday 23rd September 2007)

Distance covered: 16.41 miles
Max height: 186m Min height: 30m
Total ascent: 707m Total descent: 628m

Well, this leg finally got walked. Initially planned for September 2nd, it was originally going to Canterbury, got diverted to Folkestone and was then postponed due to bereavement in Val’s family. Even the rescheduled leg had a bit of last minute re-organisation, when we had to accommodate three new walkers into our arrangements. The weather forecast was good for the south-east, with the likelihood of heavy wind and rain coming from the west later in the evening, so we were hoping it wouldn’t arrive early.

Ready for the off, Boughton Lees

The morning of the walk was also not without its problems. Simon (and friend, Denis) missed their train connection, and the meeting point proved a tad tricky to find. The directions that Anne had kindly found on the internet for Pene Quarry took you to a very small lay-by (big enough for just one car) in a VERY narrow lane. Fortunately, I was aware of a view point and parking area a mile further east and after an ‘exciting’ drive up aforementioned lane trying to find somewhere to turn round, I eventually returned to the view point and found Dave, Chris and Val already there. Our other newbies, Adeola & Daniel had to be guided to us via mobile phone directions, and therefore arrived somewhat after out 9.30am meeting time. By the time we had driven back to Boughton Lees, the others had already arrived, so it was a group of 10 (our largest to date) that set out somewhat later than planned at 10.30am.

Giraffe on the loose!

Leaving the Flying Horse Inn, we immediately came upon a quirky piece of topiary in the shape of a giraffe’s head and neck; so of course, we had to pause for a group photo.

A quick slurp while we decide which route of the NDW to take

After just half a mile, we came to the split point of the NDW, with a choice of going north-east to Canterbury or south-east to Folkestone. As we were now going to the latter we continued up the road a little further before walking through agricultural land and passed a nursery to the village of Wye. There was a mixture of orchards, ‘pick your own’ beds, and several large polytunnels - we even came across a couple of pot-bellied pigs. Some of it was a little scruffy, and the walking was flat, but there were odd glimpses of the scenic delights to come.

Perry Court Farm

A hint of scenic delights to come......

Before reaching Wye high street itself, we had to negotiate the railway line where the level crossing and subsequent road bridge over the River Great Stour were partly blocked with workmen and their vehicles. I bet they were on double time! The river was very pretty in the sunshine, with huge old weeping willows overhanging the water.

River Great Stour, Wye

Church Street, Wye

The high street was picturesque as well, and there was a café on one corner doing good trade on such a lovely autumn day. Once Anne spotted that they sold ice-creams there was the inevitable delay while she indulged her ‘addiction’. While we were waiting, some of us sauntered up the road towards the church, where Dave & Chris popped into a newsagent to buy chocolate. Our route took us through the churchyard and briefly up a road passed horticultural buildings - probably something to do with Wye agricultural college which is now part of Imperial College, London.

Wye Church

Climbing Wye Downs

Finally we began to climb the Wye Downs up a fairly gentle incline - the views back over Wye and to the south were starting to impress. Before entering a wood and continuing to climb a little more steeply, we passed an unusual wooden seat, which of course presented another photo opportunity.

Zuka poses on wooden seat, and Daniel just poses!

Lovely view north from top of Downs

Leaving the woods, we reached a lane with fine views north to a deep valley. Finally reaching the top of the ascent, we emerged back onto the Downs above the Crown Memorial (celebrating the coronation of Edward VII in 1902), cut into the hillside. The memorial itself was difficult to view from directly above, but had apparently been restored between 1990 & 1995 by students of Wye College. There were also some more recent additions to the site in the form of a curved stone seat and central stone structure.

Stone seat at Wye Crown

View over Wye

An unofficial stone NDW way marker commemorated the life of a Warrick Rance ‘who loved walking these Downs’, and also confirmed we had completed an impressive 101 miles of our journey. Here Zuka met a couple of lurchers and was, I have to say, severely out-run!

Wye Crown

Our path along the top of the Downs

Walking along the ridge of the downs in the autumn sunshine, with a cool breeze blowing, was really delightful. The guide book suggested you could just see the sea from here, but we weren’t quite sure. After about half a mile, some woodland obstructed our view briefly, but then it was back into the open downland again in the Wye National Nature Reserve on Broad Down. Here we came to the deep bowl-shaped dry valley called the Devil’s Kneading Trough, which is believed to have been formed by melt water over a period of about 500 years, some 10,000 years ago.

Devil's Kneading Trough

After passing the buildings of Cold Blow farm, we stopped for lunch in a field, some of us using the straw bales as wind breaks or back supports. By this point it was clear that we had been making fairly slow progress, covering less than 6 miles in 2.5 hours, so our stop was a little shorter than usual, and we determined to up the pace a bit.

Descending the lane on Braborne Downs

For the next few miles our route followed green lanes, farm tracks and tarmac lanes, and the views were pretty good throughout, particularly on the lane near Partridge Wood. We finally descended from the downs on a path lined with hawthorns.

Hawthorne tunnel

Approaching the village of Stowting, the path ran through the fields parallel to the lane, which meant climbing a large number of stiles (the guide book suggested seven, but I’m sure I heard someone say it was ten). We could have stayed on the lane and avoided all this exertion, but then we would not have been keeping to the official path, plus we would have missed the opportunity of lots of silly stile-climbing photos. We had our work cut out getting Zuka over some of them too, as most of them weren’t very dog-friendly.

Me entering the "field of many stiles" - Stowting

"Does my bum look big in this?"

Passing the busy Tiger Inn, I was tempted by the lingering smells of Sunday lunch, whilst Daniel could barely conceal his disappointment that we weren’t going to let him stop and have a pint. This was obviously a horsy area, and the pub sported a car park AND a horse-rail. The other unusual sign we met here was a road warning sign for moose! Surely this was a joke? New boys, Daniel and Dennis did a pretty good impersonation of the beast for the benefit of Anne’s camera.

Oneupmanship at the Tiger Inn, Stowting

Spot the difference!

Leaving the village, Zuka had the opportunity to cool off in a stream running beside the road. Turning off the lane, we climbed steeply on a narrow wooded path up Cobbs Hill. The trailing group had to wait for a posse of motorcycles to pass them before they could join us.

Climbing Cobb's Hill

View from Cobb's Hill

Emerging into the open once more, we continued to climb more gently on open downland with the views south and west continuing to impress. Reaching the top at Farthing Common, the path ran parallel to the road for a while, first across agricultural land and then pasture, where there were both cows and sheep grazing (and their inevitable deposits to avoid). Crossing a side road, it was a little disconcerting to see a sign for the Tiger Inn which we had passed some time earlier.

Crossing the lane back to Stowting

Simon reverts to childhood at Farthing Common

After dicing with death, avoiding fast moving traffic on the Etchinghill road, Simon had the chance to revert to childhood on a simple tree swing. Well, it had to be done…….. The way was not obvious as it meandered through the trees, and we decided to ignore a curiously placed waymark arrow that appeared to direct us through a large bush. Emerging from the wood into fields again, the English Channel was now clearly visible, and we took the opportunity to have a quick break here.

"Say cheese"

First view of the English Channel

Shortly after moving off, Daniel had to stop again to attend to his sore feet as he had developed an enormous blister – I thought he had become a bit quiet… Fortunately, Sally came to the rescue with a Compeed plaster, although opening the packet proved a tad difficult. Continuing, our way took us on delightful grassy paths through rolling downland. There were curious ripples in the earth, making the hills look as if they were wearing contour lines. I think we diverted from the official route here slightly, as the map indicates we should have descended further than we did.

'Contour lines' on the hills

As the path continued to meander round the hillocks, we had lovely views of the sea, which was getting a lot closer now, and over the pretty hamlet of Postling (where apparently Joseph Conrad wrote some of his greatest novels, although I have to admit I’ve ever heard of him).

View over Postling

Steam Engine, near Etchinghill

Dropping down to the road, we could hear and smell what we initially thought was a steam train, so we hurried to the junction to take a photo – it turned out to be some kind of traction engine chugging along the road. We walked along the quiet lane to the next junction and came across an old car being sold in the lay-by – not sure I would have touched it with a barge pole for £586 (but purchasing Chris for £587 may have been a bargain).

What a bargain!

On top of the Downs again

Leaving the road, we climbed towards a large radio mast, set on one of the highest points on the Downs (a rather paltry 181m). It is jointly owned by the Civil Aviation Authority and MOD. Our path (which was also a bridleway) continued through the military training area. A sign helpfully warned us that there may be blank ammunition fired at any time of the day or night – not sure I’d want to risk riding there!

Tolsford air traffic radio mast

First view of Chunnel terminal

Before descending once more to cross a road, we had our first view of the Channel Tunnel marshalling yards, and felt we were now on the home run. Passing under a Victorian railway bridge, we emerged into a grassy valley, and it was abundantly clear that the only way forward was also UP. It was a bit of a slog, and just when you thought you were nearly at the top, there was a sting in the tail, as the path turned to the right and became even steeper. Phew! Daniel was flagging a bit (more to do with the pain in his feet, I think), but Adeola managed a smile for the camera.

A bit of a pull - Phew!

Another hawthorn tunnel

For the last couple of miles the path essentially followed the cliff top path, with fine early evening views over the Chunnel terminal (curiously attractive in a futuristic kind of way), Folkestone, the English Channel and finally, on the horizon, France. Although feeling a little weary now, I wasn’t sure I really wanted this super walk to come to an end. We passed another stone waymarker – 115 miles completed, and Dave got down on his knees to pray (no, sorry…….. he was just taking a photo, my mistake!), and soon afterwards passed through Pene Quarry, our original finish point.

Two thirds of the way completed

Winter wheat

However, we continued for another mile or so, seeing a rather acute view of the Folkestone Millennium White Horse on the hillside immediately below our cars (designed by Charles Newington, the best view of this is apparently to be had from the Tesco car park in Folkestone), skirting the edge (or occasionally cutting the corners) of fields sown with winter wheat, before arriving tired, but triumphant at the lay-by.

Simon & Dennis above Chunnel Terminal, Folkestone

A very tired Daniel

Well, I thought this was the nicest walk we had done to date. It was a long one at nearly 17 miles (Adeola couldn’t believe she had walked that far – Daniel could, his feet felt like he’d done 117), but the weather had been almost perfect (in fact, had got better and better as the afternoon wore on) and most of the paths and views had been fantastic. Finally, the company was even more sparkling than usual – brilliant!