Leg 11 Canterbury West Station to Boughton Lees (Sunday 11th November 2007)

Distance covered: 12.96 miles
Max height: 167m Min height: 11m
Total ascent: 539 m Total descent: 479m

Well, today was to be our final section of the NDW. Simon had persuaded Dennis to join us again, and we also had a brand new walker (Mike from Essex), so there were eleven in the group today – our biggest of the entire trail. With about 13 miles to walk, and the fact that the clocks had now changed and the nights were really drawing in, I was particularly keen that we made a prompt start, and fortunately we managed to get away just before 10am. The weather was very overcast, with rain threatening.

Ready for the off - Canterbury West station

Dave photographs the gates at Hindora Heights

We walked through the outskirts of Canterbury for about a mile, crossing the A290 in an underpass, and light rain had started to fall. Soon the residential streets ended, and after passing the impressive gateway to Hindora Heights, we began to descend on a sunken lane, ankle deep in rustling fallen leaves. Indeed, such paths were to be a prominent feature of today’s walk.

Ankle deep in leaves

Form an orderly queue, please....

The path gradually descended to cross the A2, which was relatively quiet this morning, passing our only horse field of the day (that I can recall, anyway). The leafy paths then continued for about half a mile before we emerged in “No Man’s Orchard”, where, being 11am on Remembrance Sunday, we stopped for a two minute silence. The rain had fortunately stopped by now.

Val & Sally toning nicely with the Autumn colours

Scrumping in No Man's Orchard

Some of the boys were feeling a bit mischievous and scrumped a few of the apples still remaining on the trees – although most had clearly been harvested. Continuing through the orchard we found an enormous ‘serpent’ carved from a fallen tree stump which was really very quirky. Having eaten an apple herself, Anne suggested she might turn into Eve and lead us all into temptation. Well, she is inclined to do that every time we find anywhere selling ice-cream anyway!

Have we stumbled on the Garden of Eden?

This way, that way, and scoop that poop!

Our first village of the day was Chartham Hatch, which was much more modern than the lovely villages on our last section. While walking down a residential street we waved to two little girls observing us from an upstairs window. Although we probably looked a pretty ramshackle bunch, they fortunately didn’t run screaming to their parents in alarm. In someone’s driveway we spotted a pretty unusual old car with eyes painted over the headlights. It appeared to be taxed, so presumably it is only taken out for a spin in daylight.

Here's looking at you..

Leaving Chartham Hatch in a welcome bit of sunshine

Passing the Chapter Arms pub, we left the village and continued down the lane flanked by more orchards, and the sun very briefly showed its face. Up until now there had been no far reaching views, but they were now finally opening up a little to the south. Leaving the road at Hoppers Oast house, Daniel and Dennis attempted to imitate the road sign depicting an HGV grounding on a hump in the road. I have to say their impersonation of the moose sign on NDW8 was a little more successful!

Er, 5/10 for effort, boys!

Acres and acres of apple orchards

The route initially took us alongside Fright Wood, with acres and acres of apple orchards stretching away to the south, and then down a sunken path to pass under the railway. With so many orchards in the area, it was not surprising to come across a mobile home ‘village’ – obviously sited to house the hundreds of migrant workers who must be needed to harvest the fruit. It was also not surprising to see that the car parked alongside one of the few caravans that still seemed to be occupied this late in the season, had a Polish number plate.

Avenue of trees close to Old Wives Lees

Village sign

Reaching a lane again we turned towards Old Wives Lees (some interesting place names in this neck of the woods), another modern village. Thoughts had begun to turn towards lunch as it was about 12.30pm and we didn’t want to eat too late, since we would be having an early supper. With a fair bit of road walking to do, the best spot we could come up with was the local green and playground. Unfortunately light rain started again at this precise moment, and most people sheltered under a tree to eat their sandwiches. Simon & Dennis found a rather more unusual spot in the tunnel of the children’s play equipment.

A damp lunch

Simon & Dennis shelter from the rain

Although the early part of the walk had not been particularly cold, the brief stop in the rain had caused quite a chill, and there was some donning of extra layers by a number of the group, myself included. Leaving Old Wives Lees, we continued down a very attractive lane alongside which sheep grazed among the apple trees in the inevitable orchards.

I wonder if sheep eat apples?

Ancient Yew stump at Chilham church

Crossing the A259, we soon reached the picturesque village of Chilham and several people had a quick look inside the 15th century flint church. They were apparently selling produce and books inside, and I believe Simon purchased some more reading material (to go with his World War II books purchased on NDW9). In the churchyard were the remains of an ancient yew that had been killed by falling trees in the great storm of 1987.

Chilham Square

Do they sell ice-cream?

Chilham square was quite charming with picture-postcard, half timbered Tudor & Jacobean buildings including a pub, and gift shop. The overall view was somewhat marred by the numerous cars parked there, but ‘hey-ho’, such is modern life. Leaving the square we passed the entrance gates to Chilham Castle (actually a 17th century manor house).

Chilham 'castle'

The oddly named Mountain Street

The route continued out of the village on a delightful lane called Mountain Street, with views to the west over Chilham Park and its equestrian cross country course. For the last mile or so I had noticed the cloud cover gradually moving away southwards, and now we were finally bathed in glorious autumn sunshine. Although it was only mid afternoon, the shadows were already lengthening, a reminder that there was only a couple of hours of daylight left.

Chilham Park in the sunshine

Felborough Wood

At the end of the lane the route became a leafy byway, and there was a bit of a slog up the hill to reach the top of the downs. On the way up we had to make way for two 4-wheel drive vehicles which were (unfortunately) exercising their rights to travel on this lovely path that was barely wider than them. As we reached the top of the rise, we entered a really beautiful wood. The combination of autumn colours and afternoon sunshine providing a visual and olfactory treat that was truly breathtaking – lovely!

Wonderful Autumn colours

King's Wood

The attractive path continued through King’s Wood for several miles on the edge of the scarp slope of the Downs. This part of the wood was essentially chestnut copse. Walking behind me, Chris & Mike discovered they had a shared passion for cricket and their conversation baffled me for some time.

Views south west from the scarp

View south

When we finally descended off the scarp, the views towards the south were very good, and I could just make out Wye nestling at the foot of the downs a few miles away. As the photographers got a little delayed with the views, the leading group forged some way ahead, and Dennis took a short cut across the corner of a winter wheat field to catch up – naughty boy. The leaders waited at Soakham Farm where they found a convenient wall to sit and wait for the stragglers. Dennis & Simon found a more comfy spot in the hay barn.

Soakham Farm - Cheers!

Views south east towards Wye Downs

Our final couple of miles entailed squinting into the setting sun as we walked in a south westerly direction. On a short piece of enclosed path, Dave played Tarzan on a thick piece of hanging vine. We then crossed a large unploughed stubble field where there were two people with metal detectors hunting for hidden treasure. Anne found her own treasure to photograph in the form of lovely red poppies.

Wye Downs - you can just see the Crown

Boulton Aluph church

We passed through the small hamlet of Boughton Alph with its fine square towered church before finally reaching the lane leading back to Boughton Lees. As this was where the NDW divides on its way to Dover, this was actually the official finish point of our journey. Understandably, we stopped for some celebratory group photos before walking the last half mile back to our cars in the village.

Mission accomplished - NDW complete!

Sunset in Boughton Lees

As it was only 4pm, and Michael was not intending to return with the rest of us to Canterbury for a meal, we had a drink in the Flying Horse, where I presented official NDW certificates to those of us who had walked the entire trail – Anne & Zuka, Sally (the only ones who had done all eleven ‘official’ walks), Val/Chris (who had completed the entire walk between them), myself and Dave.

Sally receives her NDW certificate in the Flying Horse

Well done, Anne & Zuka

Congratulation, Dave

Good team effort from Val & Chris..

and well done to me, too

We then drove back to Canterbury West station and walked through the city centre to Azouma, a cosy Moroccan restaurant, where we had a splendid meal to celebrate the finish of this adventure.

Floodlit Canterbury Cathedral

Celebratory meal at Azouma, Canterbury

I think I can speak for everyone when I say that we all thoroughly enjoyed walking the North Downs Way. We became quite intimate with the motorway network of Southern England, experienced some really wonderful and varied scenery, and for the most part, were extremely lucky with the weather (particularly considering 2007 has been the wettest summer on record). The trail was easy to follow (we only got lost a few times), and well maintained. Although we were strangers at the start (apart from Val & Chris and later additions, Daniel & Adeola who are married), we have enjoyed getting to know each other, and are certainly planning to walk a new trail in 2008. Watch this space........