North Downs Way

COPYRIGHT

2007-11-25T17:39:00.001Z

Please note that all photos on this blog belong to members of my walking group. They request that none are reproduced without permission. Thank You.

Leg 11 Canterbury West Station to Boughton Lees (Sunday 11th November 2007)

2007-11-25T08:32:00.003Z

Distance covered: 12.96 miles
Max height: 167m Min height: 11m
Total ascent: 539 m Total descent: 479m

Well, today was to be our final section of the NDW. Simon had persuaded Dennis to join us again, and we also had a brand new walker (Mike from Essex), so there were eleven in the group today – our biggest of the entire trail. With about 13 miles to walk, and the fact that the clocks had now changed and the nights were really drawing in, I was particularly keen that we made a prompt start, and fortunately we managed to get away just before 10am. The weather was very overcast, with rain threatening.

Ready for the off - Canterbury West station

Dave photographs the gates at Hindora Heights

We walked through the outskirts of Canterbury for about a mile, crossing the A290 in an underpass, and light rain had started to fall. Soon the residential streets ended, and after passing the impressive gateway to Hindora Heights, we began to descend on a sunken lane, ankle deep in rustling fallen leaves. Indeed, such paths were to be a prominent feature of today’s walk.

Ankle deep in leaves

Form an orderly queue, please....

The path gradually descended to cross the A2, which was relatively quiet this morning, passing our only horse field of the day (that I can recall, anyway). The leafy paths then continued for about half a mile before we emerged in “No Man’s Orchard”, where, being 11am on Remembrance Sunday, we stopped for a two minute silence. The rain had fortunately stopped by now.

Val & Sally toning nicely with the Autumn colours

Scrumping in No Man's Orchard

Some of the boys were feeling a bit mischievous and scrumped a few of the apples still remaining on the trees – although most had clearly been harvested. Continuing through the orchard we found an enormous ‘serpent’ carved from a fallen tree stump which was really very quirky. Having eaten an apple herself, Anne suggested she might turn into Eve and lead us all into temptation. Well, she is inclined to do that every time we find anywhere selling ice-cream anyway!

Have we stumbled on the Garden of Eden?

This way, that way, and scoop that poop!

Our first village of the day was Chartham Hatch, which was much more modern than the lovely villages on our last section. While walking down a residential street we waved to two little girls observing us from an upstairs window. Although we probably looked a pretty ramshackle bunch, they fortunately didn’t run screaming to their parents in alarm. In someone’s driveway we spotted a pretty unusual old car with eyes painted over the headlights. It appeared to be taxed, so presumably it is only taken out for a spin in daylight.

Here's looking at you..

Leaving Chartham Hatch in a welcome bit of sunshine

Passing the Chapter Arms pub, we left the village and continued down the lane flanked by more orchards, and the sun very briefly showed its face. Up until now there had been no far reaching views, but they were now finally opening up a little to the south. Leaving the road at Hoppers Oast house, Daniel and Dennis attempted to imitate the road sign depicting an HGV grounding on a hump in the road. I have to say their impersonation of the moose sign on NDW8 was a little more successful!

Er, 5/10 for effort, boys!

Acres and acres of apple orchards

The route initially took us alongside Fright Wood, with acres and acres of apple orchards stretching away to the south, and then down a sunken path to pass under the railway. With so many orchards in the area, it was not surprising to come across a mobile home ‘village’ – obviously sited to house the hundreds of migrant workers who must be needed to harvest the fruit. It was also not surprising to see that the car parked alongside one of the few caravans that still seemed to be occupied this late in the season, had a Polish number plate.

Avenue of trees close to Old Wives Lees

Village sign

Reaching a lane again we turned towards Old Wives Lees (some interesting place names in this neck of the woods), another modern village. Thoughts had begun to turn towards lunch as it was about 12.30pm and we didn’t want to eat too late, since we would be having an early supper. With a fair bit of road walking to do, the best spot we could come up with was the local green and playground. Unfortunately light rain started again at this precise moment, and most people sheltered under a tree to eat their sandwiches. Simon & Dennis found a rather more unusual spot in the tunnel of the children’s play equipment.

A damp lunch

Simon & Dennis shelter from the rain

Although the early part of the walk had not been particularly cold, the brief stop in the rain had caused quite a chill, and there was some donning of extra layers by a number of the group, myself included. Leaving Old Wives Lees, we continued down a very attractive lane alongside which sheep grazed among the apple trees in the inevitable orchards.

I wonder if sheep eat apples?

Ancient Yew stump at Chilham church

Crossing the A259, we soon reached the picturesque village of Chilham and several people had a quick look inside the 15th century flint church. They were apparently selling produce and books inside, and I believe Simon purchased some more reading material (to go with his World War II books purchased on NDW9). In the churchyard were the remains of an ancient yew that had been killed by falling trees in the great storm of 1987.

Chilham Square

Do they sell ice-cream?

Chilham square was quite charming with picture-postcard, half timbered Tudor & Jacobean buildings including a pub, and gift shop. The overall view was somewhat marred by the numerous cars parked there, but ‘hey-ho’, such is modern life. Leaving the square we passed the entrance gates to Chilham Castle (actually a 17th century manor house).

Chilham 'castle'

The oddly named Mountain Street

The route continued out of the village on a delightful lane called Mountain Street, with views to the west over Chilham Park and its equestrian cross country course. For the last mile or so I had noticed the cloud cover gradually moving away southwards, and now we were finally bathed in glorious autumn sunshine. Although it was only mid afternoon, the shadows were already lengthening, a reminder that there was only a couple of hours of daylight left.

Chilham Park in the sunshine

Felborough Wood

At the end of the lane the route became a leafy byway, and there was a bit of a slog up the hill to reach the top of the downs. On the way up we had to make way for two 4-wheel drive vehicles which were (unfortunately) exercising their rights to travel on this lovely path that was barely wider than them. As we reached the top of the rise, we entered a really beautiful wood. The combination of autumn colours and afternoon sunshine providing a visual and olfactory treat that was truly breathtaking – lovely!

Wonderful Autumn colours

King's Wood

The attractive path continued through King’s Wood for several miles on the edge of the scarp slope of the Downs. This part of the wood was essentially chestnut copse. Walking behind me, Chris & Mike discovered they had a shared passion for cricket and their conversation baffled me for some time.

Views south west from the scarp

View south

When we finally descended off the scarp, the views towards the south were very good, and I could just make out Wye nestling at the foot of the downs a few miles away. As the photographers got a little delayed with the views, the leading group forged some way ahead, and Dennis took a short cut across the corner of a winter wheat field to catch up – naughty boy. The leaders waited at Soakham Farm where they found a convenient wall to sit and wait for the stragglers. Dennis & Simon found a more comfy spot in the hay barn.

Soakham Farm - Cheers!

Views south east towards Wye Downs

Our final couple of miles entailed squinting into the setting sun as we walked in a south westerly direction. On a short piece of enclosed path, Dave played Tarzan on a thick piece of hanging vine. We then crossed a large unploughed stubble field where there were two people with metal detectors hunting for hidden treasure. Anne found her own treasure to photograph in the form of lovely red poppies.

Wye Downs - you can just see the Crown

Boulton Aluph church

We passed through the small hamlet of Boughton Alph with its fine square towered church before finally reaching the lane leading back to Boughton Lees. As this was where the NDW divides on its way to Dover, this was actually the official finish point of our journey. Understandably, we stopped for some celebratory group photos before walking the last half mile back to our cars in the village.

Mission accomplished - NDW complete!

Sunset in Boughton Lees

As it was only 4pm, and Michael was not intending to return with the rest of us to Canterbury for a meal, we had a drink in the Flying Horse, where I presented official NDW certificates to those of us who had walked the entire trail – Anne & Zuka, Sally (the only ones who had done all eleven ‘official’ walks), Val/Chris (who had completed the entire walk between them), myself and Dave.

Sally receives her NDW certificate in the Flying Horse

Well done, Anne & Zuka

Congratulation, Dave

Good team effort from Val & Chris..

and well done to me, too

We then drove back to Canterbury West station and walked through the city centre to Azouma, a cosy Moroccan restaurant, where we had a splendid meal to celebrate the finish of this adventure.

Floodlit Canterbury Cathedral

Celebratory meal at Azouma, Canterbury

I think I can speak for everyone when I say that we all thoroughly enjoyed walking the North Downs Way. We became quite intimate with the motorway network of Southern England, experienced some really wonderful and varied scenery, and for the most part, were extremely lucky with the weather (particularly considering 2007 has been the wettest summer on record). The trail was easy to follow (we only got lost a few times), and well maintained. Although we were strangers at the start (apart from Val & Chris and later additions, Daniel & Adeola who are married), we have enjoyed getting to know each other, and are certainly planning to walk a new trail in 2008. Watch this space........

Leg 10 High & Dry pub, Waldershare to Canterbury West Station (Sunday 14th October 2007)

2007-11-25T08:32:00.001Z

Distance covered: 13.98 miles
Max height: 122m Min height: 10m
Total ascent: 286m Total descent: 357m

Val unfortunately had to miss her second walk in a row, as she only arrived back from the Frankfurt book fair at some ungodly hour in the morning - we missed her (and the promised sausages). Simon, who was trying to impress a new girlfriend, had agreed to go to the opera that evening, and as the show started at 7pm was unable to come as he would not have arrived back in time.

Ready to leave from the High & Dry car park

Despite some early morning fog to hamper the car journey, we all arrived at the start point in good time and were therefore able to set off just before 10am - a considerable improvement on the previous two walks. Donning my rucksack, I had my first mishap of the day, when I got soaked from my hydration-bladder tube – the bite valve had mysteriously vanished – and I quickly had to devise a technique to prevent the water siphoning out all over me between sips. Blowing back down the tube seemed to work as long as I remembered not to bend down………..

Lych gate, Waldershare church

Not a cloud in the sky

As we set off down the road towards the junction with the NDW there was quite a nip in the air, but not a cloud in the sky, promising warm temperatures later. Reaching a flint church we had an early group photo in front of the fine lych-gate before continuing through the graveyard and into a meadow.

Memorial to Mary Hornsby

Home Farm, Waldershare Park

The path passed a memorial sign to Mary Hornsby who died in 1990 and whose legacy allowed the planting of over 1200 saplings to repair the damage done by the Great Storm of 1987 to the trees of Waldershare Park. We continued passed the impressive Waldershare House (18th –century brick-built manor house), sitting in the lovely extensive parkland over which we now walked. The leaves on the trees were beginning to take on their seasonal colours, and a lovely autumnal smell hung in the air.

Anne in the park

The grass in this and subsequent fields was extremely wet and I was glad I had decided to wear my waterproof walking boots. Pretty early on Adeola discovered, to her dismay, that her boots were not, and soon developed soaking socks (I think this rather set the scene for Adeola today, and she never quite recovered her normal joie de vivre).

Waldershare House

Waldershare Park

Leaving the park we crossed a large arable field with new growth, where the diagonal path was fortunately very clear on the ground, and quite compacted. There were masses of tiny blue pellets among the plants, which made it look as if someone had been sprinkling slug bait, but I suspect it was more likely to be fertiliser. There were views to Eythorne to the north.

Diagonal path across very dry arable field

Immature wood

Stepping over a very low stile, which Anne, rather wickedly, suggested was made especially for Sally’s short legs, we entered a young wood. The fence and stile were equally small on leaving the trees, so I suspect they were designed to keep rabbits out of – or even in? – the woods).

Low stile in rabbit fence

Me & Sally enjoying the unseasonably warm weather

At Coldred Court Farm we disturbed a very noisy Jack Russell, who yapped incessantly for some time. The farmer’s wife also came out of the house to ask Anne to put Zuka on the lead as there were sheep in the field, although they were actually no where near where we were walking. As we reached the next stile we met a group of walkers coming in the opposite direction and bade them a good morning – we were not the only ones out enjoying this wonderful autumn day.

The inevitable 'poppy' picture

"Nice to meet you"

There followed a succession of stubble fields, and we continued under electricity pylons to arrive at Shepherdswell (which, according to the map, also goes by the name of Sibertswold for some reason). The church here was rather unusual with a five-sided knave. This was the first of several lovely Kentish villages we were to pass through today, and they were all charming.

Shepherdswell Church

"More cheese, Gromit?"

Crossing the road we approached a house called The Old Bakery with some imaginative topiary in the front hedge (I think it was supposed to be Wallace & Gromit). The path then proceeded down a track and past a stable yard where there was a large flock of geese, and also some ducks. Daniel had his first opportunity of the day to stroke a horse, which I’m sure made him very happy. We came across some more horses a little further on – an Appaloosa mare and foal. There were not particularly interested in us though, as the mare continued to munch her hay net, and the foal snoozed on the grass.

Appoloosa mare and foal

Chris shows off his ball skills

The noise of a football match was now very evident from a nearby field, and Chris was obviously delighted to find a stray ball that had come over the hedge. A few minutes of showing off his footwork inevitably followed, before he (rather reluctantly, I thought) kicked the ball back over the hedge. Shortly before reaching the next road we came across some trim trail equipment and Daniel had us all in hysterics with his antics on the bars. Chris, I have to say, was much more agile despite the age difference!

Chris reverts to boyhood

"Keep off the grass, and that means you!"

Approaching the lane, we passed a curiously inviting sign outside a house asking us to ‘Keep off the Grass’. Someone suggested we should have a group photo here ON the grass, naturally, but we somehow resisted the urge. At the lane we crossed a level crossing for the East Kent Railway and soon picked up a grassy drove road which we followed to another lane. Following a gentle half mile pull up Long Lane we crossed the railway line again. Dave was fortunately keeping a better eye on the map than me, and redirected the leading group to the correct path across the next field.

Leaving Shepherdswell

Woodland path near Three Barrows Down

Our route became a pleasant wooded path between fields, with the lovely aroma of autumn leaves assaulting our nostrils. This soon became a sunken lane and we took a break here near Three Barrows Down, where there were tumuli marked on the map, although I think they were in the woods somewhere as I didn’t see them. Zuka was entertained by a mouse or other small creature burrowing in the leaf litter, while we humans also turned our thoughts to food, and discussed the possibility of a Christmas meal together. I think it was Chris who suggested we should go to the Dirty Habit at Hollingbourne for Turkey Fajitas (with all the trimmings of course). Ha Ha!

Woolage Village

Looking back towards Woolage Village

As we continued towards Woolage Village, we met three trail motorcyclists on the narrow path. Curiously, the map showed our route as a bridleway, although, when we reached the next road, the ROW sign suggested it was a byway. The Village itself is apparently a fairly recent settlement, having been built for the workers at the nearby Elvington pit. There was a post office marked on the map, so we thought we might be in luck for an ice-cream, but unfortunately for us it was now converted to a residential dwelling.

Thatched cottage in Womanswold

Quick breather

We soon reached our next village, the much older and very much quainter Womenswold. I have no idea how it got its name, but there was a tongue in cheek suggestion that the men might not be welcome there. I was rather hoping to find a village sign on the road for us girls to be photographed with, but there were none on the route we took. Like Sheperdswell, the village itself was delightful, with a number of thatched cottages and another pretty church. Sally actually preferred some of the less ‘twee’ properties. I should imagine that house prices in this area are pretty horrendous. The unspoilt villages all appear so rural and yet they are only a short distance (by car at least) from Canterbury.

View from our lunch stop

Daniel admires the maize

Our route continued across yet more autumn sown arable fields. As the map told us that our route would soon be converging with the A2, and traffic noise was likely to become an issue, we stopped for lunch here. Continuing on, we by-passed some farm buildings where my hat got snagged on a low branch which whisked it from my head and deposited it on the ground behind me. Without thinking I bent down to retrieve it, and water immediately siphoned out of my drinking tube all down my front. At least it was a warm day to be taking part in an impromptu wet T-shirt competition!

Bearham Downs

Windbreak trees

The enormous fields we now crossed had more of a South Downs feel to them as we walked over flatish ground in a pretty straight north westerly direction. As we were travelling roughly parallel with the A2, but gradually converging with it, there was obviously quite a bit of traffic noise over this section. When we passed a large patch of maize (grown as cover for game birds) Zuka (and Chris) had an entertaining five minutes disturbing the birdlife, while Anne tried (but failed) to get a close up photo of a pheasant in panicked flight.

The impressive Higham Park

Leafy path alongside the A2

Having crossed a couple of lanes and walked alongside a nursery orchard with acres of fruit bushes, we finally neared the A2, and caught site of the impressive Higham Park – a large country house. For a little over half a mile the path ran directly alongside the main road in a shady, but rather noisy, tree-tunnel path. At least the trees shielded us from the view, if not the sound, of the road. There was a satisfying rustling as we walked through the fallen leaves on this section of path.

Descending towards Patrixbourne

Patrixbourne Church

Turning away from the main road again, we skirted another large field (where Anne spotted a bird of prey – possibly a sparrowhawk?), before descending, quite steeply at first, towards the lane leading to Patrixbourne Again a lovely sleepy village, but as with the others, there were no shops (not even closed ones) so we were ice-creamless once more. Leaving the village we had a quick rest break. Daniel was a little taken back to find we still had over an hour’s walking ahead of us (I had unintentionally slightly underestimated the total distance for today’s section). Adeola was also feeling very tired today, and was not her normal perky self.

Colourful trees at the church

All in t-shirts - not bad for mid October

As we continued on tracks between orchards, shared with quite a few cyclists, Anne & Chris who were up at the front, briefly disappeared into the hedge together! Allegedly it was simply because they had spotted the first views of Canterbury to the north-west, and when we caught up with them we found (to the disappointment of the scandal mongers amongst us perhaps?) that it was quite true. The cathedral spire was clearly evident, but there were still a few miles to go so we onwards we went.

David Heathcote's sketch book

Anne & I had a brief conversation with an older man who was out cycling, and had stopped to sketch the surrounding countryside. We had a quick look at this sketch-book, and he was really very talented. Just in case he ever becomes famous, his name was David Heathcote. While speaking to the artist, Zuka went AWOL in the woods, and we had to wait a few minutes for her to turn up. As we hurried to catch up with the rest of the group, we spotted a camper van in the distance which, to those of a desperate nature, could have been confused with an ice-cream van. (thanks to the trickery of digital photography, Anne was able to work magic on the van later as you can see from the photos below.......)

Before....

..and after!

Reunited with the main group, we continued past some industrial buildings (possibly a storage depot of some kind) and had our first good view of the cathedral. Our rural walk finished for the day, we reached a residential road and continued towards the city centre.

St Dunstans

Entering Canterbury city centre

Nearing the cathedral we passed the impressive ruins of St Dunstans and stopped for a chocolate break in a local newsagent. Sally suggested we should finish our walk in proper pilgrim style, ie on our knees – at least my water wouldn’t have leaked anymore as I had already finished it!

The magnificant Canterbury Cathedral

Pedestrianised streets

Finally reaching the city, we had a quick look at the cathedral (from the outside at least), and then continued through the busy shopping centre. We passed through the impressive West Gate and a couple of minutes later were back at the cars. Returning to the High & Dry pub we (for the 2nd walk running) had a drink and (several) packets of crisps before making our separate ways home.

Ducking stool

West Gate

Scenically, this section was never going to be as impressive as the previous two, but it was still a very nice autumn walk, and the weather had been superb all day. Finishing in Canterbury had also been a notable highlight.

Leg 9 Folkestone to the High & Dry pub, Waldershare (Sunday 30th September 2007)

2007-11-25T08:31:00.001Z

Distance covered: 16.74 miles
Max height: 169m Min height: 6m
Total ascent: 813m Total descent: 883m

We had a rather late start again as Daniel and Adeola got lost on the way to the pub finish point. Making use of the extra half hour waiting time at the start, Simon read a book (or possibly had a sleep), while Anne and Sally picked sloes.

Leaving the Chunnel Terminal behind

Today’s weather was forecast to be dry again, and although it was a pretty nippy first thing, there was plenty of sunshine for a large part of the day. Simon’s friend, Denis, couldn’t come (have we scared him off that easily?), and Val had family business to attend to, so there were eight of us who set off sometime after 10.30am from the view point above the rather quiet Chunnel terminal. Although a bit hazy, the French coast was clearly visible.

Folkestone White Horse

The initial path ran along the cliff top, parallel to the lane, and was rather muddy due to some rain over the preceding few days. As cows grazed the hillside here, there was also quite a bit of ‘poo’ to avoid. After about ½ mile there was another angled view of the White Horse, but it really needed to be photographed from down near the M20 for maximum impact.

A train about to enter the Channel Tunnel

Caesar's Camp earthworks

Arriving at the impressive earthworks called Caesar’s Camp, our route skirted the main hill. There were quite a few other walkers around this morning, although most seemed to be locals taking their dogs for a stroll on the cliffs rather than hardcore hikers like us! The views south were over Folkestone industrial estate to the sea, while north there were rolling agricultural fields.

Group photo on Round Hill

Sun out, fleeces off

We soon crossed the busy A260 and then it was ‘fleeces off’ for me and Sally, as the sun was getting quite warm now. The road took us up the hill, where we crossed a (much photographed) stile and back onto grass. Many of the hills around us had the characteristic ‘contour line’ effect seen on the previous walk, including the attractive Sugarloaf Hill.

Don't think he's listening to a word you say, Sally!

Views SW to Sugarloaf Hill, Folkestone and the A20

Along this section, called Dover Hill, we came across a small herd of Highland cattle (a bit far from home?), which also became the subjects of quite a few photos. Zuka then found her ‘lunch’ in the form of a discarded takeaway, complete with bag, which she carried proudly for some distance. Daniel started a trend for this particular walk by making friends with a couple of elderly horses, one of which was a very curiously coloured Appaloosa cob which had no tail hair at all, poor thing.

Higland Cattle on Creteway Down

Daniel makes a friend

Crossing the B2021 we reached the Valiant Sailor pub, where we waited for the stragglers near the outlet of the extractor fan, bathed in the scents of chips and other sundry culinary delights (?!). Gastric juices well stimulated, I think Simon was quite keen to have lunch then and there, but as it was only about noon we were determined to press on for another hour or so.

Views east along cliff

Looking back to an empty Folkestone harbour

The route then took us along a scrubby cliff top path. Behind us to the west we were finally saying goodbye to Folkestone (the harbour looked forlorn and empty - passenger ferries no longer depart from here), while ahead of us there were some good views of white cliffs above sandy bays. Some of the ‘sandy’ beaches turned out to be concrete (!), and it is probable that these were built to allow channel tunnel construction vehicles to carry their spoil to the dump site (well, no one could think of a better explanation). The path was narrow and occasionally went through hawthorn ‘tunnels’ or between gorse hedges -some better trimmed than others.

Battle of Britain memorial

Spot the difference

We arrived relatively unscathed at the Battle of Britain memorial site, which covers quite a large area of grass, and is well maintained. There were several separate memorials, grassy banks, a couple of planes, plus a posh information centre with shop and loos. A few of us made use of the facilities and/or purchased soft drinks, while Simon, not content with listening to his IPOD, bought three World War II paperbacks, which he then had great difficulty stuffing into his rucksack. As this was obviously a place of ‘quiet contemplation’, it was a shame that someone saw fit to disturb the peace with a noisy remote control car.

Memorial site giftshop

A moment of quiet contemplation at the memorial wall

Pressing on at last, we were immediately forced to descend some tricky steps partway down the cliffside, only to some back up another set almost immediately. Here we came across a curious Spanish style property, although with the sun glinting onto the sea over their garden wall, you could today perhaps (with some imagination) believe you were in the Med. Continuing on the scrubby path, our route soon drew close to the road again, where there were a number of houses with second floor balconies to take advantage of the sea views. Glancing towards them, I spotted a resident sitting in his window enjoying the autumn sunshine, and we exchanged a quick wave.

Now they tell us!

When we reached the ‘Cliff Top Café’, we just had to stop for ice-cream and chocolate, but as it was now lunch time there was a bit of a queue, and it took quite a while to be served. In the end, most of us also bought slices of lemon cake ‘to go’, some of which lasted longer than others (Daniel, I believe, ate his in two bites as he left the café). We were now all keen to stop for lunch, and after walking on a few hundred yards we found a suitable spot with a couple of seats on the cliff top with stunning views. What we didn’t know was that there was a proper picnic area just round the corner, but it was still a glorious spot.

A lovely spot for lunch

View west back towards Folkestone

As we continued along the cliffs, Zuka got sidetracked briefly by a pheasant, and we passed a small mobile home site (it would be interesting to know how much these prime-site properties change hands for) and ducked through a number of foliage tunnels. As the route drew closer to the A20, the traffic noise became a little intrusive again.

Early warning system

Along the cliff top here were a varied assortment of concrete structures – a large concave-faced early warning system for detecting planes (pre-radar, obviously), a rather quirky botanical ‘book’ illustrating the orchids that presumably flower here in season; and some rather unattractive pill boxes, bunkers and a disused rifle range.

Stone book

Cliff path towards Shakespeare Cliff

Below us was the Samphire Hoe Country Park, which has been constructed from the spoil of the Channel Tunnel, and in the publicity blurb is described as ‘the newest bit of England’. From above I have to say it didn’t look particularly scenic (I guess age will improve its looks), and at one end of it there was some kind of industrial construction with whirly silver things on top, which is probably something to do with the Chunnel ventilation system.

Sampire Hoe country park

Dover harbour

Some of the path here was a bit narrow, through scratchy gorse and hawthorn, but the views towards Dover cliffs and harbour were quite splendid. When the sun popped out from behind a cloud, the white cliffs and ferries took on a surreal appearance. After meeting more horses, and passing another waymarker (122 miles), we descended the very steep Round Down, and then it was up again over Shakespeare Cliff, which on the approach looked a bit like a ridge walk, but was actually completely benign. Apparently it owes its name to the scene in King Lear where the blind Earl of Gloucester attempts to hurl himself off the precipice (not being a Shakespeare buff myself, I have only read A Midsummer Nights Dream which I did for O-Level about a million years ago).

Under the A20

The end of the cliff path was marked by a curiously shaped seat with a ridged back - the plaque referred to the North Downs as the backbone of southern England. We then descended towards the (not so scenic) Dover town, passing beneath the A20 through an underpass and walking up a road of residential houses. Anne wasted some phone credit here contacting Simon, who we thought had gone the wrong way – but he was actually ahead of us, bless him – that damn IPOD was making him very self-centred today!

Knights Templar church - Dover

Western Heights fortifications

We then climbed steeply up the grassy Western Heights. Here we came across the ruins of an ancient Knights Templar church and skirted some impressive fortifications. We had clear views of the castle ahead, although our route would not be taking us there today. The sky had clouded over rather by this time and the light was a bit ‘flat’ for Anne’s liking (photographically speaking).

Dover castle

Mind how you go, Sally!

Descending towards the town centre down a long flight of steep, slippery steps (the sign warning us to hold on to the handrail was, rather unhelpfully, at the bottom), we soon arrived at Market Square, the official end point of the NDW. Curiously, there is nothing to mark it as such, not even an information board. However, as we still had six further miles to complete that day (and roughly thirty in total) we weren’t too upset.

Dover

We purchased snacks in a local newsagent and had a brief rest near the fountain, while Dave and I ‘argued’ about the route out of the square, as there didn’t appear to be any signs. Having previously printed out a town map of Canterbury I was pretty confident of the way, and so everyone followed my lead – fortunately we soon picked up an NDW signpost as we passed St Mary’s church, and crossed a small park.

Simon & Zuka in Market Square - Dover

St Mary's church

After walking north through suburban streets for approximately a mile we finally, and thankfully, left Dover behind, passing through a cemetery, and continued on a path under some curiously low bridges. We passed a large group of French hikers walking towards the town. I think one of them asked if they were going the right way for the boat. After crossing a railway line the metalled path eventually became a pleasant tree tunnel.

Cemetary

Sorry Zuka, dogs not allowed

Leaving Dover, Dave had confidently predicted that the rest of the route that day should be fairly flat. Well, I have to say that after that statement was uttered we climbed fairly consistently (and steeply enough to really feel it) for well over a mile! Thanks Dave! Poor Sally got a bit left behind as we trudged up the hill - she must curse those of us with longer legs at times.

Ploughed fields approaching A20

The end is nigh..........

Once the ascent began to level off, the tree lined path (which was rather wet in places) ran between ploughed arable fields. As we approached the busy A2 traffic noise became more evident. The route was diverted east here to take us to a safer crossing point over a road bridge, and then returned west on the far side. Turning north again the path was again contained in a hawthorn tunnel, and on one short section there was rather a lot of litter.

Tree tunnel path between fields

You've just gotta laugh!

Passing a field of horses, we just had to stop and make some more equine friends. I even shared a joke with one! Before reaching the village of Pineham (which is little more than a hamlet of farms) we passed another stone way marker. This one was rather dirty and some previous walkers had attempted to clean it up a bit so you could read the engraving.

Tired walkers

Dirty waymark approaching Pineham

We were all getting weary now but were fortunately on the home straight. Walking on a brief section of ‘roman road’ we encountered an enormous farm vehicle which took up the whole lane and had to pull aside to let us pass. Our route took us through the pretty village of Ashley where we had to walk up the lane, and unfortunately managed to rouse some fierce dogs. Crossing fields again at Minacre Farm we made friends with our last horse of the day (a smart piebald cob pony), before finally crossing the road bridge over the A256 and turning right up the lane to reach the High & Dry pub.

Monster farm vehicle

Evening draws in, approaching Waldershare

It was now about 6.20pm and the light was definitely beginning to fail – the combination of a late start and too much dawdling (plus the not inconsequential 16¾ miles we had walked) having taken its toll. As a walk, the part before Dover was far more interesting than the latter stages, but there was nothing much to complain about really – we had just been spoiled by rather a lot of wonderful scenery for much of both this walk and NDW8.

Folkestone Chunnel terminal at night

After a welcome and much needed drink and packet (or two) of crisps at the pub, we returned to Folkestone to the other waiting cars. It was by now pitch black and obviously quite impossible to photograph the White Horse from Tesco or anywhere else. Finally leaving the lay-by to drive home, I was personally very glad that I would not be driving on those narrow lanes near Pene again!

Leg 8 Boughton Lees to Folkestone (Sunday 23rd September 2007)

2007-11-25T08:29:00.000Z

Distance covered: 16.41 miles
Max height: 186m Min height: 30m
Total ascent: 707m Total descent: 628m

Well, this leg finally got walked. Initially planned for September 2nd, it was originally going to Canterbury, got diverted to Folkestone and was then postponed due to bereavement in Val’s family. Even the rescheduled leg had a bit of last minute re-organisation, when we had to accommodate three new walkers into our arrangements. The weather forecast was good for the south-east, with the likelihood of heavy wind and rain coming from the west later in the evening, so we were hoping it wouldn’t arrive early.

Ready for the off, Boughton Lees

The morning of the walk was also not without its problems. Simon (and friend, Denis) missed their train connection, and the meeting point proved a tad tricky to find. The directions that Anne had kindly found on the internet for Pene Quarry took you to a very small lay-by (big enough for just one car) in a VERY narrow lane. Fortunately, I was aware of a view point and parking area a mile further east and after an ‘exciting’ drive up aforementioned lane trying to find somewhere to turn round, I eventually returned to the view point and found Dave, Chris and Val already there. Our other newbies, Adeola & Daniel had to be guided to us via mobile phone directions, and therefore arrived somewhat after out 9.30am meeting time. By the time we had driven back to Boughton Lees, the others had already arrived, so it was a group of 10 (our largest to date) that set out somewhat later than planned at 10.30am.

Giraffe on the loose!

Leaving the Flying Horse Inn, we immediately came upon a quirky piece of topiary in the shape of a giraffe’s head and neck; so of course, we had to pause for a group photo.

A quick slurp while we decide which route of the NDW to take

After just half a mile, we came to the split point of the NDW, with a choice of going north-east to Canterbury or south-east to Folkestone. As we were now going to the latter we continued up the road a little further before walking through agricultural land and passed a nursery to the village of Wye. There was a mixture of orchards, ‘pick your own’ beds, and several large polytunnels - we even came across a couple of pot-bellied pigs. Some of it was a little scruffy, and the walking was flat, but there were odd glimpses of the scenic delights to come.

Perry Court Farm

A hint of scenic delights to come......

Before reaching Wye high street itself, we had to negotiate the railway line where the level crossing and subsequent road bridge over the River Great Stour were partly blocked with workmen and their vehicles. I bet they were on double time! The river was very pretty in the sunshine, with huge old weeping willows overhanging the water.

River Great Stour, Wye

Church Street, Wye

The high street was picturesque as well, and there was a café on one corner doing good trade on such a lovely autumn day. Once Anne spotted that they sold ice-creams there was the inevitable delay while she indulged her ‘addiction’. While we were waiting, some of us sauntered up the road towards the church, where Dave & Chris popped into a newsagent to buy chocolate. Our route took us through the churchyard and briefly up a road passed horticultural buildings - probably something to do with Wye agricultural college which is now part of Imperial College, London.

Wye Church

Climbing Wye Downs

Finally we began to climb the Wye Downs up a fairly gentle incline - the views back over Wye and to the south were starting to impress. Before entering a wood and continuing to climb a little more steeply, we passed an unusual wooden seat, which of course presented another photo opportunity.

Zuka poses on wooden seat, and Daniel just poses!

Lovely view north from top of Downs

Leaving the woods, we reached a lane with fine views north to a deep valley. Finally reaching the top of the ascent, we emerged back onto the Downs above the Crown Memorial (celebrating the coronation of Edward VII in 1902), cut into the hillside. The memorial itself was difficult to view from directly above, but had apparently been restored between 1990 & 1995 by students of Wye College. There were also some more recent additions to the site in the form of a curved stone seat and central stone structure.

Stone seat at Wye Crown

View over Wye

An unofficial stone NDW way marker commemorated the life of a Warrick Rance ‘who loved walking these Downs’, and also confirmed we had completed an impressive 101 miles of our journey. Here Zuka met a couple of lurchers and was, I have to say, severely out-run!

Wye Crown

Our path along the top of the Downs

Walking along the ridge of the downs in the autumn sunshine, with a cool breeze blowing, was really delightful. The guide book suggested you could just see the sea from here, but we weren’t quite sure. After about half a mile, some woodland obstructed our view briefly, but then it was back into the open downland again in the Wye National Nature Reserve on Broad Down. Here we came to the deep bowl-shaped dry valley called the Devil’s Kneading Trough, which is believed to have been formed by melt water over a period of about 500 years, some 10,000 years ago.

Devil's Kneading Trough

After passing the buildings of Cold Blow farm, we stopped for lunch in a field, some of us using the straw bales as wind breaks or back supports. By this point it was clear that we had been making fairly slow progress, covering less than 6 miles in 2.5 hours, so our stop was a little shorter than usual, and we determined to up the pace a bit.

Descending the lane on Braborne Downs

For the next few miles our route followed green lanes, farm tracks and tarmac lanes, and the views were pretty good throughout, particularly on the lane near Partridge Wood. We finally descended from the downs on a path lined with hawthorns.

Hawthorne tunnel

Approaching the village of Stowting, the path ran through the fields parallel to the lane, which meant climbing a large number of stiles (the guide book suggested seven, but I’m sure I heard someone say it was ten). We could have stayed on the lane and avoided all this exertion, but then we would not have been keeping to the official path, plus we would have missed the opportunity of lots of silly stile-climbing photos. We had our work cut out getting Zuka over some of them too, as most of them weren’t very dog-friendly.

Me entering the "field of many stiles" - Stowting

"Does my bum look big in this?"

Passing the busy Tiger Inn, I was tempted by the lingering smells of Sunday lunch, whilst Daniel could barely conceal his disappointment that we weren’t going to let him stop and have a pint. This was obviously a horsy area, and the pub sported a car park AND a horse-rail. The other unusual sign we met here was a road warning sign for moose! Surely this was a joke? New boys, Daniel and Dennis did a pretty good impersonation of the beast for the benefit of Anne’s camera.

Oneupmanship at the Tiger Inn, Stowting

Spot the difference!

Leaving the village, Zuka had the opportunity to cool off in a stream running beside the road. Turning off the lane, we climbed steeply on a narrow wooded path up Cobbs Hill. The trailing group had to wait for a posse of motorcycles to pass them before they could join us.

Climbing Cobb's Hill

View from Cobb's Hill

Emerging into the open once more, we continued to climb more gently on open downland with the views south and west continuing to impress. Reaching the top at Farthing Common, the path ran parallel to the road for a while, first across agricultural land and then pasture, where there were both cows and sheep grazing (and their inevitable deposits to avoid). Crossing a side road, it was a little disconcerting to see a sign for the Tiger Inn which we had passed some time earlier.

Crossing the lane back to Stowting

Simon reverts to childhood at Farthing Common

After dicing with death, avoiding fast moving traffic on the Etchinghill road, Simon had the chance to revert to childhood on a simple tree swing. Well, it had to be done…….. The way was not obvious as it meandered through the trees, and we decided to ignore a curiously placed waymark arrow that appeared to direct us through a large bush. Emerging from the wood into fields again, the English Channel was now clearly visible, and we took the opportunity to have a quick break here.

"Say cheese"

First view of the English Channel

Shortly after moving off, Daniel had to stop again to attend to his sore feet as he had developed an enormous blister – I thought he had become a bit quiet… Fortunately, Sally came to the rescue with a Compeed plaster, although opening the packet proved a tad difficult. Continuing, our way took us on delightful grassy paths through rolling downland. There were curious ripples in the earth, making the hills look as if they were wearing contour lines. I think we diverted from the official route here slightly, as the map indicates we should have descended further than we did.

'Contour lines' on the hills

As the path continued to meander round the hillocks, we had lovely views of the sea, which was getting a lot closer now, and over the pretty hamlet of Postling (where apparently Joseph Conrad wrote some of his greatest novels, although I have to admit I’ve ever heard of him).

View over Postling

Steam Engine, near Etchinghill

Dropping down to the road, we could hear and smell what we initially thought was a steam train, so we hurried to the junction to take a photo – it turned out to be some kind of traction engine chugging along the road. We walked along the quiet lane to the next junction and came across an old car being sold in the lay-by – not sure I would have touched it with a barge pole for £586 (but purchasing Chris for £587 may have been a bargain).

What a bargain!

On top of the Downs again

Leaving the road, we climbed towards a large radio mast, set on one of the highest points on the Downs (a rather paltry 181m). It is jointly owned by the Civil Aviation Authority and MOD. Our path (which was also a bridleway) continued through the military training area. A sign helpfully warned us that there may be blank ammunition fired at any time of the day or night – not sure I’d want to risk riding there!

Tolsford air traffic radio mast

First view of Chunnel terminal

Before descending once more to cross a road, we had our first view of the Channel Tunnel marshalling yards, and felt we were now on the home run. Passing under a Victorian railway bridge, we emerged into a grassy valley, and it was abundantly clear that the only way forward was also UP. It was a bit of a slog, and just when you thought you were nearly at the top, there was a sting in the tail, as the path turned to the right and became even steeper. Phew! Daniel was flagging a bit (more to do with the pain in his feet, I think), but Adeola managed a smile for the camera.

A bit of a pull - Phew!

Another hawthorn tunnel

For the last couple of miles the path essentially followed the cliff top path, with fine early evening views over the Chunnel terminal (curiously attractive in a futuristic kind of way), Folkestone, the English Channel and finally, on the horizon, France. Although feeling a little weary now, I wasn’t sure I really wanted this super walk to come to an end. We passed another stone waymarker – 115 miles completed, and Dave got down on his knees to pray (no, sorry…….. he was just taking a photo, my mistake!), and soon afterwards passed through Pene Quarry, our original finish point.

Two thirds of the way completed

Winter wheat

However, we continued for another mile or so, seeing a rather acute view of the Folkestone Millennium White Horse on the hillside immediately below our cars (designed by Charles Newington, the best view of this is apparently to be had from the Tesco car park in Folkestone), skirting the edge (or occasionally cutting the corners) of fields sown with winter wheat, before arriving tired, but triumphant at the lay-by.

Simon & Dennis above Chunnel Terminal, Folkestone

A very tired Daniel

Well, I thought this was the nicest walk we had done to date. It was a long one at nearly 17 miles (Adeola couldn’t believe she had walked that far – Daniel could, his feet felt like he’d done 117), but the weather had been almost perfect (in fact, had got better and better as the afternoon wore on) and most of the paths and views had been fantastic. Finally, the company was even more sparkling than usual – brilliant!

Leg 7 Hollingbourne to Boughton Lees (Sunday 12th August 2007)

2007-11-25T08:28:00.001Z

Distance covered: 13.27 miles
Max height: 163 m Min height: 69m
Total ascent: 369m Total descent: 387m

For today’s walk we were back to the basic core group of seven, although we wasted some time at Boughton Lees waiting for Simon C, who was a ‘no-show’, despite indications earlier in the week that he would be joining us for this leg. I think we’ve given up on Martin. The forecast was for possible showers, but it was warm, so most people were wearing shorts from the outset. My oldest dog, Becky, joined us today for the first time, and Maggie came again too.

Leaving Hollingbourne

A surprisingly perky Simon (this early in the morning!)

From the Dirty Habit pub in Hollingbourne we walked south-east following the Pilgrims Way along a narrow road which soon became a track. There were views to the south, but as we were not particularly high, and walking near the base of the Downs, they were not as far reaching as they had been on previous legs. The walking was fast, if a little hard on the feet, as for much of the time the route was on metalled roads or gravelled track ways.

Shady path

Looking back

Our first main point of interest was views over Harrietsham, with its distinctive square church tower. Near the crossroads leading south to the village, there was a large white house set on the hillside above us, which seemed to have been built to take full advantage of the contours and gain the most impressive views.

View south to Harrietsham

Location, location, location

Set a little back from the lane, shortly after Harrietsham, Chris spotted a life-size wooden pilgrim resting on a seat. This was a pretty unusual sight to say the least, and definitely required a group photo. As luck would have it, another party of walkers arrived from the other direction as this point, which included an acquaintance of Anne’s who was happy to take a rare group picture of all of us. Subsequent research has discovered the sculpture was only unveiled in April this year and is nicknamed Percy.

We meet Percy Pilgrim

At this point, the guide book mentions the Marley Works, which according to the map, is quite a sizeable development (possibly a factory), but in all honesty, I cannot say that I remember seeing it at all. Strange…….

"Come on, you slow coaches"

"After you, Maggie" - Lenham drove road

The metalled road became a green lane again, and the going became a little awkward for a few minutes as the surface had recently been repaired with lots of small white stones that shifted under the feet. Crossing another metalled lane leading down to Lenham village, we soon passed through a five-barred gate and onto a lovely wide, grassy drove road. This led to the large war memorial cross carved into the hillside above a handy seat (strangely surrounded by railings with a gated entrance). Although it was only a little after 12 noon, Val was already hungry, so we had an early lunch here.

Lenham Cross

Interesting lunch spot at Lenham Cross

A rather lopsided milestone declared we had now completed 92miles of our journey. For the first time I noticed there was also something carved on the back – the milestones seem to commemorate the work done by Kent County Council and the Countryside Agency on the NDW in 1993. Come to think of it, the previous milestones had also been at pretty random distances from the start (48, 60, 71, 79 miles) and there had been none in Surrey, so perhaps they were all sites which required extra official intervention in the creation of the National Trail as it passed through Kent (subsequent enquiries to the National Trail Officer have suggested that this is not the case, but he was unable to give me an explanation for the siting of these markers).

"Hey, there's something written on the back"

Undulating countyside between Lenham & Charing

The grassy track continued for about half a mile, before becoming a hawthorn-hedged tunnel, and then a more open track alongside harvested cornfields. Our first really open piece of walking occurred around Cobham Farm where we walked across the arable fields and passed some old barns. The A20 was reasonably close here, so there was some traffic noise, but it was good to be away from the motorways for a change. Soon the village of Charing came into sight, again with a square church tower, but once again this settlement was off route.

Looking back to Cobham Farm

View towards Charing church

On another ‘tarmac’ section, Dave had to cope with a difficult work call on his mobile – an irate customer wanted him to ship some air-conditioning part over from France ‘today’, even though it was a Sunday afternoon. “I can’t do anything until Monday morning!” was not surprisingly, Dave’s repeated cry. A pleasant wooded section followed, and here we felt a couple of spots of rain – but fortunately this was the worst weather we experienced all day.

Dave walking AND talking (men can multitask afterall!)

Westwell Downs woods

Anne’s idea to bring a more bowl-shaped container for ‘doggie drinks’, meant that Maggie was actually keeping hydrated this week, although still very much on her terms. Zuka also appeared to be drinking more than usual, which may have contributed to her developing ‘lovely’ hanging drools, which when dangled in the dirt, took on an even more menacing appearance. Suddenly no-one wanted her near their legs. Old Becky was coping very well with the walk, as I had hoped she would. She was up with the leaders most of the time, which did mean she kept doubling back regularly to see where I’d got to, but the extra mileage didn’t seem to bother her.

Ugh! - Doggy drool

Arriving at the hamlet of Dunn Street, we met a friendly chap who was trimming the hedge by a stile (how thoughtful). It turned out he was the owner of the camp site there, and we passed a few minutes in conversation with him.

Sally takes a photo

Our route then entered Eastwell Park estate, where we followed a gravelled driveway across arable fields, before dog-legging right and left through trees round the back entrance to the Eastwell Park Hotel grounds – “Private Grounds, Keep Out!” We crossed a field containing nearly ripe maize that towered over us, but fortunately the pathway through the plants was wide enough for it not to feel claustrophobic. In two other accounts of walking the NDW, I had previously read about a very large mansion built somewhere in the estate grounds, and thought it odd that I didn’t remember seeing it. Writing this now, I think the height of the maize crop must have hidden the building from our view, so maybe I’m not going blind after all – apart from missing the Marley Works earlier in the walk!

Path through maize field

Emerging onto a tarmac drive we diverted off route briefly – squeezing through a narrow kissing gate - to look at the remains of St Mary’s Church which is “being repaired by The Friends of Friendless Churches” would you believe? There is some disagreement as to whether the damage was caused by neglect or by bomb damage during World War II. The church stands on the banks of Eastwell Lake, apparently the second largest artificial lake in Kent. Maggie and Zuka took the opportunity to cool off in the smelly shallows (which led to ‘bog-dog’ odours in the car travelling back to Hollingbourne later).

Remains of St Mary's church

The dogs in Eastwell Lake

A family group of cyclists also viewing the church then told us about a brick tomb round the other side which is allegedly the final resting place of Richard Plantagenet, a bastard son of Richard III. We hurried round the church to take a look and a photo, while the dogs tried unsuccessfully to cadge food from a group of elderly picnickers, who had set up their chairs in the grounds of the church. I don’t think they were very amused – the pensioners, I mean, not the dogs.

A bit of history at St Mary's church

Eastwell Park

We returned to the Park driveway and followed it up a gentle incline to meet a fingerpost shared with the E2 European Path. This ultra long distance route starts in Galway, Ireland and continues for 3030 miles to Nice, France. It is probably impractical for us to attempt this one in day walks, don’t you think?

Dave considers continuing all the way to Nice on the E2 path

Path above Eastwell Manor

The final ½ mile took us past the main entrance to the Eastwell Manor Hotel (where there was obviously a wedding taking place, judging by the fancy chauffer driven cars on the drive), and across the A251 Faversham Road before reaching Boughton Lees village green. The green here is quite sizeable and there was a game of cricket in progress. Skirting round the field and past the club house, we arrived back at our cars parked outside the Flying Horse Inn.

Boughton Lees village green

Although the pub had a very nice garden, they had sadly finished serving food for the day, and as we all (except Dave) planned to eat before returning home, we decided to go back to Hollingbourne and eat at the Dirty Habit. This proved to be a more pleasant experience than most of us had expected (!), with Anne particularly enthusiastic about her Chicken Fajitas.

The Dirty Habit, Hollingbourne

Today’s section was certainly rather different to our previous walks. At just over 13 miles it was one of the shortest, ran more or less in a south-easterly direction for the entire distance, and was pretty flat. As so much of the path followed gravel tracks or tarmac lanes, it was a bit hard on the feet (Dave was particularly affected, I believe), but I do not recall a single time when I became short of breath, or really noticed the gentle ups and downs.

Leg 6 Medway Bridge to Hollingbourne (Sunday 15th July 2007)

2007-11-25T08:27:00.000Z

Distance covered: 16.86 miles
Max height: 206 m Min height: 2m
Total ascent: 950m Total descent: 904m

This account covers the ‘alternative’ walk taken by Dave & I, since neither of us could make the official one scheduled for 5th August. I woke to thunder storms and heavy rain and wondered if it might be better to postpone the walk until the following weekend, but by the time we met at Hollingbourne, the worst of the weather had moved away north, and it was dry, if rather overcast. It was also noticeably humid, a weather feature that was to plague us during a very long day. As most of the pictures here were taken by Anne on the 'official' leg they show much more blue sky than we encountered.

View over Cuxton towards River Medway

Country Walking? Crossing River Medway on M2 bridges

We started our walk at the Ranscombe Farm Reserve car park near Cuxton, and almost immediately crossed the River Medway on the same bridge that was carrying the M2. Nearing the other side, where the bridge overlooked the houses of Borstal (isn’t there a ‘holiday home’ for a certain type of teenager there?), there were some Perspex screens between us and the traffic, placed to reduce noise pollution to the town, and they certainly appeared to do their job quite effectively. Looking back the way we had come, there were views of Rochester castle and the cathedral spire. After dropping down and passing under the motorway, we soon (fortunately) turned south and away from the drone of traffic, and began the inevitable climb to the crest of the Downs.

Medway bridges - M2 and Chunnel rail link

Heading up the Downs at last

Our path was initially alongside arable fields, with good views back towards the bridges, but soon became a stony byway with much of the views obscured by trees. We passed a sign for the isolated Robin Hood pub and continued along the byway to reach Blue Bell Hill picnic site and view point, where we stopped for a breather and some liquid refreshment. Standing proud in the car park was a memorial to the Sussex Air Ambulance that crashed locally in 1998, killing all three men on board.

View from Bluebell Hill

Memorial to crew of crashed air ambulance

Our route followed the A229 for ½ mile, but thankfully the path was separated from it by trees. We soon reached Kits Coty House – three huge stones plus cap stone – part of a Neolithic Long Barrow burial chamber. To prevent further damage, the site is now guarded by iron railings, but allegedly, some of the graffiti is over 130 years old. Continuing on a pleasant sunken path, we arrived at an unusually shaped underpass beneath the A229. Fortunately, despite the earlier thunderstorms, the passage was dry – last time Dave had been this way the tunnel had been flooded to well over boot level. Energy levels were running a bit low at this point, so we popped into the petrol station to buy chocolate - the air conditioning in the shop was rather nice too.

Kits Coty House burial chamber

Cycle trail marker & ambiguous NDW waymark

Leaving the garage forecourt there was an unusual carved metal marker post, which was actually for a national cycle route, but was still interesting enough to photograph. Following the slightly ambiguous way marks, rather than looking at the map or GPS, I then set off in the wrong direction, but as Dave had been here before, he quickly realised my error, and we retraced our steps (confronting a youth with a motor cycle who definitely looked up to no good). We crossed the Channel Tunnel rail link for the third time that day and then, walking along an attractive sunken path, passed another Neolithic monument called White Horse Stone, which was not nearly as impressive as Kits Coty, and not white either, come to think of it.

White Stone

Sharing our route with the Maidstone Centenary Walk, we now climbed very steeply, gaining over 100m in half a mile. The guide book described the climb as ‘reminiscent of Box Hill’ and we wouldn’t disagree! As the path flattened out we passed another mile stone (79 miles completed) and my prayer was briefly answered when the sun popped out to brighten up the woods, and cast some dappled shade. At the edge of the wood small standing stones had been used to construct a stile.

Dappled woods - Maidstone centenery walk

The path now skirted a large arable field, and light rain had started to fall. However, after the long climb, plus the warm air temperature, neither of us bothered to put on our coats, and the rain did not continue for very long. The wooded scarp slope was to our right but there were no views, except where the trees had been cut back to allow the passage of electricity cables strung between pylons.

Approaching Detling

We had a late lunch in Boxley wood, then continued on the bridleway through scrubby woodland for just over a mile. As intermittent sounds from the nearby Kent Show reached us, the route then followed a narrow sunken lane to the bottom of the scarp and turned left towards Detling. We crossed the busy A249 on Jade’s Bridge - erected after the death of Jade Hobbs and her grandmother while crossing the dual-carriageway in December 2000. After crossing, I dropped some loose change in the collecting box. As we left the village on the Pilgrims Way, we passed an impressive Tudor gateway set into the stone wall.

Jade's Bridge - crossing the A249

Tudor gateway - Detling

Our path soon climbed the Downs again and we walked along the rolling chalk hillside alongside the White Horse Community Wood. The views south and south-east were now starting to become very good, albeit rather hazy. In a cruel twist, the route then crossed a dry valley which involved descending some very steep steps with a slightly gentler climb up the other side. Reaching a narrow road, we decided to forgo a visit to Thurnham Castle (up more steps) as the guide book suggested there was not much of it left anyway.

Very steep steps descending dry valley

Views east near Thurnham castle

After walking along a scrubby chalk path for about ¼ mile, we reached an arable field and were then a little unclear of the route, as there did not seem to be an obvious path in the direction of the marker arrows. We therefore took a clearer path into a grassy field, which did initially appear to be in the correct direction according to both map and GPS. Another ¼ mile on, and I was now convinced we were not on the right path after all, but we continued to the field boundary and walked steeply back uphill along the fence line (to the bemused looks of some young beef cattle), hoping to be able to get back onto the NDW at the top. Unfortunately, there were thick brambles and scrub between us and where we believed the correct route to be. We back-tracked along the fence, until we found a gap in the scrub and ‘hey-presto’ there was the path, but unfortunately on the other side of the fence (stock wire plus two strands of barbed wire on top). We did manage to struggle over – although far from elegantly, at least on my part!

Descending Cats Mount

The route now switch-backed through woodland and scrub for about 1½ miles, with several more sets of wooden steps to negotiate. Finally emerging from the wood over a stile that had a very long drop on the far side (I’m glad we didn’t have to climb it from the other direction), a splendid panoramic view awaited us – lovely rolling countryside and undulating arable fields. We decided to savour the moment and rested on the hillside in the shade for ten minutes. While enjoying a cup of tea, we spotted two other ‘proper’ hikers – unbelievably the only other booted and ‘ruck-sacked’ walkers we saw all day – but they were not walking the NDW, so our paths did not cross.

Early evening approaches

With several more miles still to walk, we hauled ourselves back to our feet for the final assault. The path initially swung north round a spur then settled in a roughly south-easterly direction, where apart from a couple of small wooded sections, it continued mainly across open downland. Finally, we began our descent to Hollingbourne, which had been tantalisingly visible for the last mile or so. Unfortunately, Dave suddenly realised he had lost his camera somewhere over the preceding few miles, but we decided to continue down to the car initially, to finish our longest section to date, at just under 17 miles.

Hollingbourne appears at last

After a quick drink at the uninspiring ‘Dirty Habit’ pub, we drove the car back to where our route had crossed a narrow lane a couple of miles from the finish – and that was an adventure in itself! Then, I walked one way and Dave walked the other. Thanks to mobile phone technology, and the fact that we actually both had signal coverage (amazingly unusual in an ‘emergency’), Dave was able to ring me after about 15 minutes with the good news that he had found the missing camera. We returned to the car with a further mile or so under our belts. This would certainly be a section that neither of us would forget.

***************************************************

Brief notes re ‘official’ Leg 6 – Sunday 5th August

There was some confusion regarding the meeting point, with cars waiting at three different pubs in the Hollingbourne area. Eventually the group all found their way to the Dirty Habit, and returned to the Medway Bridges in one car, although it did mean a later than usual start. As Dave & I were missing, and both Simon C & Martin had not joined us for some time, there were just five walking today (Anne, Simon S, Sally, Val & Chris). Zuka had a friend though, as Anne was looking after her friend’s Labrador, Maggie.

River Medway from bridge

Nashenden Farm

The forecast was for a hot, sunny day, and it was certainly pretty warm (and noisy) as they made their way over the Medway bridge alongside the motorway. However, a breeze picked up as they headed up the Downs, which helped.

Any takers for these poor wee doggies?

Wonderful display of hydrangas along Hill Road

Anne had bought herself a new camera and was taking even more pictures than normal. Consequently, at the A229 underpass, she had got a bit left behind, and could not believe her eyes when she saw the rest of the group returning towards her pushing an abandoned ice-cream freezer (sadly empty)!

Imprisoned at Kit's Coty

Anyone for ice cream?

When they reached the Shell garage the group unfortunately made the same mistake as Dave & I, and turned left by the National Cycle Route marker. There was a van partially blocking the correct route across the railway bridge which made it difficult to see. Val’s guidebook also turned out to be rather older than she’d thought, as it was written before the rail link was built, and was therefore inaccurate at this point. With hindsight, it was a shame I didn’t tell them about my navigational error here a few weeks earlier. As Dave knew the area, we had only gone off track for a short distance, but the main group continued to Lower Warren Road before turning round, which meant that, once back on route, they had added a full mile to the walk.

So pylons can be beautiful...

Having just passed the pylons in the large arable field at the top of that very steep ascent, they nearly missed the waymark directing them into Westfield wood on the edge of the escarpment. Unfortunately, the group then did miss the marker post directing them left and back out of the wood almost immediately, which meant a brief ‘lost in the woods’ moment, before they were back on track.

Simon lost in the Amazon jungle - aka Westfield Wood

Jade's Bridge - Detling

Eventually they reached Detling – which Chris said seemed to take forever - the navigational errors wouldn’t have helped. Luckily, they didn’t make the same mistake as Dave & I near Thurnham, although there was some route discussion at this point, and the map was consulted. Anne’s map-reading skills were obviously up to the mark and they took the correct route.

9/10 for technique, Val!

Sally checking the route - Cat's Mount

By the time they reached the lovely viewpoint at Cat’s Mount they must have all been feeling pretty hot & tired, and Sally admits she was dreaming of the finish when she was photographed looking at the map. Val was also getting a bit tetchy, apparently. Anne’s focus of irritation was more canine than human, as Maggie had continually refused to drink from any of the offered containers, and in view of the temperature, she was understandably worried that the dog was getting dehydrated.

Descending to Hollingbourne

They finally reached Hollingbourne in the early evening, to a welcome drink at the Dirty Habit. Like me, Chris was not altogether impressed with the place, but at the end of long, hot day, who cared?

Leg 5 Kemsing to Medway Bridge (Saturday 7th July 2007)

2007-11-25T08:25:00.001Z

Distance covered: 15.5miles
Max height: 231m Min height: 15m
Total ascent: 690 m Total descent: 857m

As previously agreed, we started today’s walk with a short re-cap of NDW Leg 4, beginning at the top of the hill just west of Otford and re-walking a ¾ mile section of the trail. We had three absentees again (with some variation), so were a modest group of six once more. Simon S made an equine friend in the first field, who was quite keen to join us, but as it wouldn’t have fitted through the kissing gate at the field boundary, had to resume its grazing and let us continue ‘sans equus’. Horses in subsequent meadows were content just to watch our progress with only minor interest.

Looking back towards Kemsing

Over you go, Sally

Leaving a minor road at Highfields Farm, we were a little unclear of our route for a few minutes, which resulted in a climb over a high, rickety fence to get back on track, where Anne picked up a splinter in her hand. In the meadow beyond, while waiting for the stragglers to catch up, Simon S made good use of a couple of minutes rest time and lay spread-eagled on the grass – takes a while to ‘warm up’ into a walk, does Simon!

Early rest, Highfields Farm

60 down, 93 to go........

Our path continued roughly eastwards though arable fields and woods, and there were some wonderful views to the south – the visibility today was by far the best it had been on any of our walks to date, making the countryside look all the more beautiful in the sunshine.

Lovely sky

Swathe of poppies

Crossing another road, we walked down some steps through the woods before descending more gently through an arable field, where Anne got delayed photographing poppies growing as ‘weeds’ amongst the corn. At the bottom of this field was a curious large dark patch, which from the top of the hill reminded us of a crop circle. However, on closer inspection (and Simon S inspected it VERY closely by putting his foot in it), it appeared to be some kind of manure dump.

Looking back towards Chalk Pit wood

Easy walking

Swinging east once more, we followed a farm track for a couple of miles. The track was hemmed in for much of the way between hedges, but there were occasional lovely views both south, over rolling farmland, and north to the downs themselves. It was here that Zuka made her second catch of our NDW adventures, although we believe this one was already ‘deceased’ before she found it! Very pleased with herself, she appeared with a partridge/pheasant (?) in her mouth, and again took some persuading to give up her trophy. Even the lure of Anne’s sandwich was not sufficient incentive (unusual for a Labrador). Once dog and prize were finally separated, we had to keep a sharp eye on her for a while to stop her doubling back to retrieve it again – well she is a gundog.

Anne tries to persuade Zuka to swap lunch

Crossing the surprisingly quiet M20

Finally we arrived at the houses on the outskirts of Wrotham, and followed first a minor road, and then briefly, the A20, as we crossed the M20 on a road bridge. Our route now swung north-east with the Downs themselves, as once again we followed the route of the Pilgrims Way on a quiet lane. The path meandered between the road and fields along this attractive section, and we took advantage of a shady spot under a tree in the field just past Hogmore Farm for our lunch. There was quite a cool breeze blowing, so the heat-worshippers amongst us preferred to sit in the sun.

Sweeping downs - viewed from Hognore Farm

Hognore Wood

After lunch we continued briefly along Pilgrims Way before climbing back up through woods onto the chalk Downs once more. Crossing the A228, we began to walk down the road to Trottiscliffe before branching off into Trosley Country Park just before an elegant flint bridge. The beauty of the surroundings was a little marred by a powerful odour of drains, but fortunately this had dispersed by the time we reached the visitor centre, where we used the facilities to the full – both loos and refreshments.

Trosley Country Park cafe

Trosley Country Park

Our route continued on a level, wooded path through the Country Park for a little over a mile. Strangely, many of the plastic way-marking arrows for the NDW had been removed from the wooden posts, but the way was easy to follow so there was no problem. We were following part of a ‘trim trail’ through the park, and both Simon S and Chris showed how manly they were by attempting several pieces of the apparatus.

Simon showing off

After a brief climb, we turned right (where the way-marking now went into overkill, with an arrow, a National Trail acorn, and an engraved stone) down a steep track and off the ridge once more. At this point we considered a brief diversion to see the Coldrum Stones long-barrow, but we were not sure exactly how far off trail it was, and the path to it was downhill, in the wrong direction, so only Anne ventured off to explore. She soon returned disappointed, however, as the stones were obviously a bit more than the ‘short stroll’ mentioned in Valerie’s guide book.

Glorious view from base of Downs below Whitehorse Wood

Merged with the Pilgrim’s Way again, our path followed the downs as they began to turn north-east. The walking was easy, the weather was perfect and the views were gorgeous, even though we could see a bit of industrialisation in the form of a paper mill in the distance. It was not totally peaceful, but you could only hear a distant hum from the motorway some way off to our right, and fortunately it was pretty much hidden from view by trees. The downs rose up to our left. Strangely, on this relatively open section, the GPS had great problems getting a signal, so I can only assume the satellites were all having a get-together on the other side of the downs.

Paper mill in the distance

Eventually, it was time to climb to the top again, fairly gently at first on good chalk grassland, and then a final steep (mercifully fairly short) stretch up to meet a road. Before continuing, we had a breather and stepped slightly off the trail to admire the view, including glimpses of the River Medway. Here we met a lone mountain biker who had plenty to say about (a) cyclists who were only venturing out because the Tour de France was in England this weekend, and (b) regimented Rambler’s Association groups, route-marching without looking where they are going. We quickly assured him we were an independent group and had been dawdling along all day (both of which were quite true).

On top of the Downs again, Zuka takes the lead

Very smart, Sally!

Unusually, for the next mile or so our route went northwards and we soon passed Holly Hill house, which being right on the ridge, must have had the most fantastic views to both east and west from its upper storey. Leaving the road, and entering Greatpark Wood, we were nearly mown down by 2 jeeps emerging from our route. At that point they were actually quite within their rights, as for a short distance the trail followed a BOAT (byway open to all traffic). Their legacy however, was a wet, rutted path, and Sally decided that mud-splattered legs were absolutely the thing to wear this summer. The OS map showed a large chalk pit lake close by, but this was unfortunately hidden from our view by trees.

Crossing a meadow, approaching Horseholders Wood

On we trudged, getting a little weary now, though alternating woods and meadows. Once again, the ‘boys’ showed off by walking over a rather dilapidated wooden bridge. The girls sensibly stayed on the footpath and simply walked round it.

Rolling countryside, leaving North Wood

A very rare shot of Anne!

In a long northward sweep, the path took as up and down through some lovely rolling countryside and through the delightful hamlet of Upper Bush, where we had a short rest.

Nearly half way

Upper Bush

On the final mile or so of our walk we skirted the edge of Cuxton, crossed the railway, and looped northwards once more before finally heading back towards the A228 (with our first good views of the River Medway) to and our waiting cars.

Views near Cuxton

Supper at the Chequers Inn

The day wasn’t quite over yet however, as, after returning to the start point and picking up the remaining two vehicles, we had a very nice meal in the garden of The Chequers Inn, just east of Kemsing. For me this section was definitely the best so far – what a wonderful way to spend the day!

Leg 4 Titsey Hill to Kemsing (Sunday 1st July 2007)

2007-11-25T08:24:00.000Z

Distance covered: 13.5miles
Max height: 269m Min height: 59m
Total ascent: 464 m Total descent: 626m

Today’s weather forecast was not promising, and the waterproofs were to feature again on this section, if only occasionally. Martin and both Simons were absent at roll call, so it was a depleted group of six that set off from Titsey Place car park. The early walking though thick woods was pretty gloomy, as it was so overcast, but at least the path led gently downhill, so it was an easy start to the day - although one had to be careful of wet tree roots, which were VERY slippery.

Looking SW to Pilgrims Farm

Wooden sculpture by B269

Eventually we emerged into arable fields and climbed again, passing an unusual wooden sculpture alongside the B2024. The way continued up Chestnut Avenue, where, in addition to an attractive NDW map, there was also a council sign suggesting that the area was used for ‘various unlawful purposes’! This caused certain imaginations to go into overdrive, and lowered the tone of the conversation for much of today’s walk. The road passed the golf club and some rather posh houses (with guard dogs on duty) before degrading to a gravelled track as we descended once more. Twisting and turning through woods, we crossed the Surrey/Kent border, and passed a milestone celebrating the completion of our first 48 miles of the NDW.

Nearly 1/3 of the way completed

Val enjoying the views

After crossing the Biggin Hill/Westerham road, we climbed through fields again, gently at first, but then more steeply. The light rain was only intermittent at this stage, but the views were unfortunately rather diffused by low cloud. Our route continued in similar vein for some time, crossing or running parallel to minor roads. Along its length, the route of the NDW is indicated by various types of way marks (arrows, acorn marks, wooden finger posts, engraved stones etc), but now we had reached Kent we also came across smart new metal signs on wooden posts. These were principally used at road junctions, and the other variations continued to be seen elsewhere.

Kent CC signs

Happy walkers

Crossing a field of young cattle, we turned south round the corner of a wood to be met with what looked like a grey sea – there was no view at all. This was a bit of rather nasty weather that soon enveloped us and required hasty donning of waterproofs. The rain, although quite heavy, only lasted 10 minutes or so after which things slowly improved again.

Enveloped by a nasty bit of weather.........

..........but still smiling!

A couple of miles further on we stopped for lunch at the edge of a field near Knockholt. There was a chilly breeze blowing here so we did not linger long once the sandwiches were consumed. Refreshed, we continued on, twisting and turning along the scarp top for a couple of miles before descending to the Sevenoaks road and crossing our ‘friend’, the M25, on a road bridge. The trail followed the A224 for a while, where we passed an attractive thatched cottage with lovely distant views, but its location was somewhat spoiled by being right on the busy main road. At Donnington Manor Hotel, we were glad to turn off the road onto a footpath once more, initially sharing our route with the Darent Valley Path.

Thatched cottage on A224

Exposed chalk on the Downs

Our way continued through arable fields and offered pleasant views of rolling countryside. Even the weather had improved - there was much more blue sky, and even the odd ray of sunshine. The drinkers amongst us got excited by a printed sign for the ‘Great Kent Pub Walk’, but we did not see any of the participants until we reached Otford. Before reaching the town, however, we passed a lavender farm, with many acres of lovely mauve flowers in characteristic elongated mounds. Anne picked a few heads (on the basis that it was a crop and not wild flowers!), and us girls carried them for the rest of the walk, enjoying their scent.

Lavender fields approaching Otford

Story of Otford village to mark the Millennium

Otford high street was smart with nice houses and many art galleries and antique shops. The pond, with its resident ducks and beautiful willow trees, was also charming, BUT, this long stretch of road walking was not to most of our tastes. Finally leaving the town behind, we were now only a couple of miles from the finish of our walk, but unfortunately had to climb Otford Mount first. After catching our breaths, we continued though a grassy meadow with fine views across the Darent valley, before reaching a minor road junction where there was lay-by with parking space for several cars – which got us thinking about the start point for our next walk…….

Looking a bit weary now!

Glorious view

After passing the end of the driveway to Otford Manor, we continued on a narrow woodland path, and into a nature reserve run by the Kent Trust for Nature Conservation. By the time we reached the first footpath down to Kemsing, we had decided to start our next walk from the aforementioned lay-by. This would involve covering a fairly flat ¾ mile section of the NDW again, but would avoid having a steep, un-necessary climb up to the trail at the beginning of a long day’s walking (no contest).

View south over Kemsing

Descending towards Kemsing

As we began our steep descent off the trail, the views were wonderful, especially as the sun was again making an appearance. Finally, we followed the road back to the public car park by the Wheatsheaf pub, where we had left our vehicles. Before dispersing, we had a quick ‘bevvy’ and Anne sent malicious text messages to the absentees. The weather had certainly not been as bad as forecasted, and some of the walk was very pleasant indeed, but I think most people agreed this was probably one of the less interesting sections we had completed so far. It was also one of the quietest – apart from the towns & villages, we only passed two walkers all day.

Leg 3 Betchworth Station to Titsey Hill (Sunday 10th June 2007)

2007-11-25T08:20:00.000Z

Distance covered: 16.2miles
Max height: 269m Min height: 95m
Total ascent: 972m Total descent: 806m

Today we were to start becoming intimate with the motorway network of southern England. Sally showed how keen (mad?) she was by turning up today, having just completed the annual South Downs Way walk over the preceding 9 days. Chris was missing as he had a prior engagement watching county cricket (poor choice, I’d say).

Are you sure?

As Betchworth station is a little off the NDW, we managed to park further up the road at the start, thereby avoiding walking unnecessarily uphill at the beginning of what was to be a long hot day. Dave was nursing a migraine, but it did not seem to hold him back.

Walking round Mount Hill

View back to Betchworth from base of Juniper Hill

After a half mile walk up the road we turned west on a footway, and passing a small old quarry working, the path initially hugged the base of the scarp slope, wandering in and out of the woods around Juniper Hill. The first major climb then took us to the top of the downs on Colley Hill and the warm temperature was already taking its toll. Here we paused to admire both the views, and the attractive young Belted Galloway cattle grazing on the hillside.

Belted Galloway calf

Hazy view from Colley Hill

The noise of the M25 was very evident for a few minutes, as it was only about 50m away, behind a thin belt of trees. Fortunately the path veered away from this intrusion as we continued along the top of the scarp towards the next viewing area, where there were fine views along the North Downs, and also across Reigate and the Weald to the South Downs. Here we came across a building that looked like a miniature Georgian pavilion, with a lovely blue ceiling picked out by gold stars. This unusual structure was presented to the area by Robert Inglis in 1909. We initially had to share the space with a group of cyclists who were having a tea break (there were a few envious glances towards their fruit cake, and not just from Zuka), but we managed a few group photos and even got a rare shot of all of us when one of the cyclists agreed to take one for us.

Whole group at Colley Hill pavillion

View from Reigate Hill

Hurrying on (well, the guide book had informed us there was a car park coming up with refreshments, and once Anne gets the whiff of ice-cream she goes into overdrive), we walked along the top of Reigate Hill, before descending slightly to cross the busy A217 on a white painted footbridge. Here we found the aforementioned car park and enjoyed a short rest and an ice-cream.

A welcome break - Gatton

Millennium Stones

Our route next took us through Gatton Park school grounds near the start of which we discovered the ‘Millennium Stones’. At the time we rather pooh-poohed them as they looked rather feeble when compared with say, Stonehenge, but I have since discovered that they are ‘carved with quotations contemporary with each 200 year segment of the double millennium AD1-AD2000’. I particularly like the words on stone # 8 – “do not wish to be anything but what you are and try to be that perfectly”. We left the grounds by a very attractive thatched gatehouse called North Lodge (complete with thatched cat and bird on its roof) and continued through Reigate Hill Golf Club, which unfortunately ran parallel to the noisy M25.

Zuka at the gate house - Gatton Park

Reigate Hill golf course

We soon arrived in Quality Street, a delightful road with attractive buildings, leading to the village of Merstham on the outskirts of Redhill. The quarries here apparently provided sandstone for Windsor Castle and London Bridge in days gone by. The village has been rewarded (?) in modern times by surrounding it almost completely by the M25 and M23, with the A23 completing this nightmare ‘fence’. The M25, which we crossed on a scary footbridge, ran immediately behind the garden of a beautiful Tudor building called The Old Forge – it seemed outrageous, as the owners could surely never enjoy the beauty of their own outdoor space.

Crossing the M25

Warm work - climbing Ockley Hill

We were all getting pretty hungry now, but as our route continued over the A23 and then under the M23 we trudged on, looking for a more scenic and restful spot to have lunch. The map suggested a suitable viewpoint at the top of the next hill, but when we reached it the path was enclosed by hedges and there was no-where comfortable to sit. Passing through an unusually smart and tidy farm, we were more than tempted by the nicely mown grass verges along their driveway. We eventually found a bit of shade in the long grass under some trees in a field next to the footpath on White Hill, which unfortunately sent Simon C’s hay fever into overdrive – he was really suffering today.

Wooded path - Gravelly Hill

Caterham viewpoint

After a shortish road section, we entered an attractive wood, with the path set into the hillside - the trees clinging to the slope above and below us. The dappled sunshine added to the ambience. As we reached the grassy area and car park known as Caterham viewpoint, we were hopeful of another ice-cream, but were unfortunately disappointed on this occasion.

New bridge over A22

Hanging Wood

Our route then descended towards the A22 which we crossed on a smart new footbridge, continuing along a succession of minor roads and wooded paths. In one wood we had a minor unscheduled diversion from the route due to an absent finger post at a path junction, but quickly recovered our way once we reached the road.

Oxted from Gangers Hill

Oxted steps

Soon we reached the formidable timber-supported earth steps down the scarp slope, above the Oxted Railway tunnel. They were hard enough to descend, but boy, were we glad we weren’t walking in the other direction. The trail emerged on to open downland overlooking the motorway. After a more leisurely descent south, through fields, we again turned west, walking past a limeworks, and continued along the bottom of the scarp slope, through Oxted Down and into the Titsey Estate. Here we crossed the Meridian line before reaching our final ascent of the day, a bit of a slog up Pitchfork Lane to our cars on the top of Botley Hill.

All strung out........

It had been a long day, and the warm weather had added to the general fatigue, but we had completed another good section of the NDW and were now well into our journey.

Leg 2 Newlands Corner to Betchworth Station (Sunday 13th May 2007)

2007-11-25T08:19:00.000Z

Distance covered: 13.2miles
Max height: 221m Min height: 38m
Total ascent: 558m Total descent: 676m

Well, what a difference in the weather. The forecast was for rain and more rain, and that’s about what we got – full waterproofs all day. Martin picked a damp day to join our group, and swell our number to nine.

Leaving Newlands Corner on drove road

Starting at Newlands Corner, we were surprised by the number of other people at the car park, considering the inclement elements. We set off into the woods on the far side of the A25, but unfortunately after little more than a mile, Simon S was struck down with a migraine. We waited about 40 minutes before deciding to carry on minus one. We honestly did not expect to see him again until the end of the day.

Woodland path through West Hanger

Bit damp, but enjoying it!

The next few hours went by in a bit of a blur (or was that just water in our eyes?) – lots of wooded paths, occasional views to the south (heavily muted by low cloud), and quite a few World War II leftovers in the form of pill boxes and strange concrete tanks, the latter courtesy of the Canadian army, apparently. Around 1pm we had some really heavy rain for a while, but we were sheltered in the woods for most of the time and the weather was coming from the south west, so fortunately was not in our faces.

View from White Down Lease

Lunch stop at St Barnabas, Ranmore

Reaching Ranmore, we had a soggy lunch at St Barnabas church (known as The Church on the North Downs Way). Most people sat in the church porch round the back, but Anne & I (plus Zuka) sheltered under the entrance arch by the road – which was most fortunate as Simon S suddenly appeared out of the gloom, migraine finally under control. He must have sprinted to catch us up as we had set a fairly stiff pace ourselves.

Denbies Estate with a very murky Box Hill in the distance

Group intact once more, we left the church and soon passed some young Duke of Edinburgh Award participants – one of several groups that day – and they all looked absolutely fed up with the rain. Shortly afterwards we reached Denbies vineyard (the largest in England), protected by deer fences. For pretty much as far as the eye could see the fields were full of vines and their accompanying support posts and wires, although today’s weather was not exactly going to help create a bumper crop. From the gravel lane passing through the estate we also got our first glimpse of Box Hill looming on the other side of the valley. Leaving the estate, the normally excellent way-marking briefly deserted the trail, but fortunately this had been rectified by some previous walkers (see photo).

"Unofficial" waypoint, leaving Denbies Wood

Sally, Sara & Martin crossing the River Mole

After shunning the underpass, and risking life and limb crossing the A24, we entered Box Hill Country Park, and reached the River Mole with its charming stepping stone crossing. Due to the rain, the river was high and fast flowing, but fortunately no one fell in. Almost immediately the ascent of Box Hill began, with steps cut in to the path as it was so steep. Phew! Catching our breath at the viewing platform near the top, we looked south towards the named landmarks – but it was really not a good day for views. The visitor centre with its café was close by, but as it involved a bit more of a climb we decided not to bother - a cup of tea would have gone down a treat though.

View of Dorking from Box Hill

Taking a breather - Box Hill

Just when we thought the climbing was done, there was soon another stiff ascent, this time up a slippery chalk track, before reaching a little memorial to ‘Quick’, a racehorse that died in 1944. Descending again, the final part of the walk was through a quarry area and we emerged on the road just north of Betchworth Station, where we had left the cars earlier in the day.

View from Brockham Hills

More unofficial signage near Betchworth

Yes it was wet, but it wasn’t cold, and I think we were all glad we had done it.

Leg 1 Farnham to Newlands Corner (Sunday 14th April 2007)

2007-11-25T08:14:00.000Z

Distance covered: 14.5miles
Max height: 176m Min height: 32m
Total ascent: 619m Total descent: 512m

Seven of us – Anne, Sara, Valerie, Chris, Sally, Simon C & Dave - (plus Zuka, Anne’s dog) met at Newlands Corner (today’s finish point) at 9.30am. Quite atypically for a British April, the weather forecast was ‘hot, dry and sunny’ so most of us wore shorts. Crazy weather we were having this spring! We took a couple of cars to Farnham station and met our final member there – Simon S had come from London by train.

Official Start - Farnham

River Wey, Farnham

We posed for photos by the official start, which is unfortunately near the traffic lights on the main road – things could only get better! I had intended to record our route on the GPS for posterity, but in the excitement (?), had forgotten to turn it on at Farnham station while we were preparing to leave, and it wouldn’t pick up our location as we walked away from the start. I therefore abandoned this idea until we had our first rest break. As I was also in possession of the guide book, it was also down to me to navigate, and we nearly went wrong almost immediately as I was chatting too much as we walked along by the River Wey, and missed the right turn by a carved oak seat. Luckily this landmark was sufficiently unusual for other members of our party to notice it. Built specifically to commemorate the NDW, the back forms the shape of an orchid, and it provided another early photo opportunity.

Orchid Seat

Woods - leaving Farnham

After a mile or so we crossed the river and then had our first fairly stiff climb, up the road by Moor House. There followed some easy flat walking along quiet roads and through woods running alongside expensive ‘commuter belt’ houses, before passing Farnham golf course (the first of quite a few in this affluent area). Entering Payn’s Firs woods we came across ‘Tree House’, an unusual tree trunk decorated to look like the front door of a small forest creature’s home. There was even a little slate at the base of the tree saying “2 pints please”. Quite charming, and an awful lot nicer than the more usual carved graffiti.

Tree House - Payne's Fir Wood

Rest stop above Seale

At about the two hour mark we had our first rest stop, on a pleasant hillside with views north across the valley towards the nearby village of Seale, and glimpses of traffic on the busy Hog’s Back (A31). Continuing through attractive woodland, our doggy companion unfortunately caught a diseased, but alive rabbit, and there was a slight delay while Anne persuaded her to give up her trophy. On reaching Puttenham, everyone did well to resist the temptation of the pub, although Anne did nip in to wash the ‘rabbit’ off her hands!

Where the trail passed under the A3 and B3000, there were large crosses on the bridge – a reminder that much of the NDW follows the old Pilgrim’s Way to Canterbury.

Loseley Estate Nature Reserve

West Warren

On such a hot, sunny day, the pleasant woodland tracks and soft, sandy footing along much of our route were much appreciated. Passing through the Loseley Estate nature reserve however, we could have murdered an ice-cream – a dream that unfortunately went unfulfilled until the end of the walk. We had a late lunch near Piccard’s Farm, a mile or so west of Guildford, trespassing (very slightly) by sitting in a field close to the NDW under the shade of trees.

So many rules...........!

Pixie seat and bridge - River Wey, Guildford

Another minor navigation error, near the College of Law on the A3100, resulted in an extra 0.4miles on our journey – sorry folks! Back on track, we passed a quaint rocky seat before crossing the River Wey on an attractive wooden bridge. It was a popular place on such a lovely day, as was Shalford Park which followed.

The Simons

Leaving the outskirts of Guildford behind, we soon reached an open clearing which used to be the site of a medieval fair for Pilgrims. Today however, it was the scene of an unscheduled llama race - yes, really! A number of these animals were being walked in halters along the track and some of them broke free, much to our amusement as their handlers scurried after them.

And they're off............!

Then followed the stiff climb on a sandy track up St Martha’s Hill to a church at the summit. The views at the top were good, but rather hazy – apparently, on a clear day you can see eight counties from here. It was very hot up here in the sunshine, and after a quick break, we descended on very soft and sandy going which I think would have been pretty tough had we been travelling in the opposite direction.

View towards South Downs from St Martha's Hill

Life's a beach.....

Finally we began the slow ascent up Albury Downs towards the Newlands Corner Visitor
Centre. We were all hot and tired by now and that last hill, although not steep, seemed to go on forever. There were lots of people enjoying the unseasonable weather on the Downs, although (typically) most had not ventured far from their cars. Anne was virtually hallucinating about ice creams now and we all made a bee-line for the refreshment kiosk to end an enjoyable first leg of the NDW.

Albury Downs